Greek taverna€€Old Town
Arismari & Varsamo cooks lamb over open fire on the seafront side of Heraklion, with bean soup, tzatziki and a menu built on Cretan farm produce.
Signature: Arni ofto, Tzatziki, Fasolada
Order: Arni ofto, lamb marinated in herbs and cooked over fire
Tip: The terrace faces the sea by the Historical Museum square, which makes it a better sunset table than a midday one.
Mediterranean€€Old TownTue-Sun 12:30-01:00; Mon closed
Lola works Mediterranean small plates with a fusion streak on Kydonias in Heraklion, running from lunch to one in the morning six days a week.
Signature: Small plates, Fusion mains, Wine by the glass
Order: A spread of small plates and a glass of Cretan white
Tip: Closed Mondays. The room is small and popular with locals, so book if you want a table after 21:00.
Mediterranean€€Old TownDaily from 09:00
Pagopoieion took over a former ice factory on Agios Titos square in Heraklion, serving breakfast, ethnic-tinged plates and a deep Greek wine list.
Signature: Mushroom risotto, Beef tartare, Cretan wines
Order: Mushroom risotto, with a glass off the Cretan list
Tip: The old ice factory on Agios Titos square works as breakfast room, lunch stop and wine bar, so time your visit to the mood you want.
Mediterranean€€€Old TownDaily 13:00-00:30, April to end of October
Herb's Garden runs the Lato hotel roof in Heraklion from April to October, looking straight at Koules over fish, Cretan cheeses and seasonal salads.
Signature: Fresh fish, Cretan cheeses, Seasonal salads
Order: Fresh fish with a Cretan white, watching the fortress
Tip: Rooftop of the Lato Boutique Hotel, and seasonal: the team moves downstairs to Brillant from November to March.
Cretan meze€Old TownTue-Sun 13:00-23:30; Mon closed
Chalali is a plain Greek and Cretan taverna on Strofadon in Heraklion, cheap enough that the room stays local, open six days a week from lunch.
Signature: Cretan mezedes, Grilled meats, Raki
Order: A mezes spread with a carafe of raki
Tip: Closed Mondays, and prices sit well under the old-town average, so the room stays local rather than filling with cruise traffic.
Seafood€€€Nea Alikarnassos
7 Thalasses is the garden fish restaurant in Nea Alikarnassos, east of Heraklion, known for lobster spaghetti, paella and a bright courtyard room.
Signature: Lobster spaghetti, Paella, Tuna fillet
Order: Lobster spaghetti, the reason people drive out here
Tip: It sits by the municipal park in Nea Alikarnassos near the airport, so it works as a last dinner before an early flight.