Seafood€€Venetian HarbourDaily 12:00-23:00
Kastella is the seafront fish taverna in Heraklion where the day's catch is cooked simply, sold by the kilo and eaten facing Sofokli Venizelou.
Signature: Fresh fish, Seafood mezedes, Cretan salad
Order: Fresh fish by the kilo with a Cretan salad
Tip: Ask for a table on the sea side; the road side gets the traffic off Sofokli Venizelou.
Ouzeri€€Venetian HarbourDaily 11:00-00:00
Ouzeri tou Terzaki has poured raki in a quiet port alley in Heraklion since 1978, sending out mezedes, moussaka and whatever the boats landed.
Signature: Mezedes, Moussaka, Grilled fish
Order: A spread of mezedes, then the grilled fish
Tip: The alley off Plateia Agiou Dimitriou is easy to miss. Aim for the port end of Lochagou Marineli and look for the chairs.
Mediterranean€€Venetian HarbourMon-Tue 17:00-23:00; Wed closed; Thu-Fri 17:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-23:00
Sir Papafigos works a small-plates menu near the old harbour in Heraklion, opening in the evening on weekdays and running long lunches at the weekend.
Signature: Small plates, Seafood, Cretan wines
Order: A run of small plates built for sharing
Tip: The kitchen is shut on Wednesdays and only opens for lunch at weekends, so a Saturday or Sunday table is the easier one to book.
Greek taverna€€Old Town
Arismari & Varsamo cooks lamb over open fire on the seafront side of Heraklion, with bean soup, tzatziki and a menu built on Cretan farm produce.
Signature: Arni ofto, Tzatziki, Fasolada
Order: Arni ofto, lamb marinated in herbs and cooked over fire
Tip: The terrace faces the sea by the Historical Museum square, which makes it a better sunset table than a midday one.
Mediterranean€€Old TownTue-Sun 12:30-01:00; Mon closed
Lola works Mediterranean small plates with a fusion streak on Kydonias in Heraklion, running from lunch to one in the morning six days a week.
Signature: Small plates, Fusion mains, Wine by the glass
Order: A spread of small plates and a glass of Cretan white
Tip: Closed Mondays. The room is small and popular with locals, so book if you want a table after 21:00.
Mediterranean€€Old TownDaily from 09:00
Pagopoieion took over a former ice factory on Agios Titos square in Heraklion, serving breakfast, ethnic-tinged plates and a deep Greek wine list.
Signature: Mushroom risotto, Beef tartare, Cretan wines
Order: Mushroom risotto, with a glass off the Cretan list
Tip: The old ice factory on Agios Titos square works as breakfast room, lunch stop and wine bar, so time your visit to the mood you want.