€€€€MediterraneanVenetian Harbour
Sir Papafigos works a small-plates menu near the old harbour in Heraklion, opening in the evening on weekdays and running long lunches at the weekend.
OrderA run of small plates built for sharing
TipThe kitchen is shut on Wednesdays and only opens for lunch at weekends, so a Saturday or Sunday table is the easier one to book.
€€€€MediterraneanOld Town
Lola works Mediterranean small plates with a fusion streak on Kydonias in Heraklion, running from lunch to one in the morning six days a week.
OrderA spread of small plates and a glass of Cretan white
TipClosed Mondays. The room is small and popular with locals, so book if you want a table after 21:00.
€€€€MediterraneanOld Town
Pagopoieion took over a former ice factory on Agios Titos square in Heraklion, serving breakfast, ethnic-tinged plates and a deep Greek wine list.
OrderMushroom risotto, with a glass off the Cretan list
TipThe old ice factory on Agios Titos square works as breakfast room, lunch stop and wine bar, so time your visit to the mood you want.
€€€€MediterraneanOld Town
Herb's Garden runs the Lato hotel roof in Heraklion from April to October, looking straight at Koules over fish, Cretan cheeses and seasonal salads.
OrderFresh fish with a Cretan white, watching the fortress
TipRooftop of the Lato Boutique Hotel, and seasonal: the team moves downstairs to Brillant from November to March.
€€€€MediterraneanOld Town
Pagopoieion is the all-day room on Agios Titos square in Heraklion, an old ice factory pouring coffee from nine and serving through to dinner.
OrderMushroom risotto, with a glass off the Cretan list
TipThe old ice factory on Agios Titos square works as breakfast room, lunch stop and wine bar, so time your visit to the mood you want.
€€€€MediterraneanOld Town
Dish Bar has worked its corner of Agios Titos square in Heraklion since 2007, running Mediterranean plates early and a busy cocktail room late into the night.
OrderBeef carpaccio with truffle mayonnaise
TipIt sits a few metres from Agios Titos church, and the room turns from restaurant into a cocktail bar later in the evening.
€€€€MediterraneanVenetian Harbour
Mare Coffee Bar & Food works the Heraklion seafront from breakfast through to late drinks, with juices, sandwiches and a terrace facing the water.
OrderYogurt with nuts and honey, or a sandwich by the sea
TipRight on the Sofokli Venizelou seafront, which makes it a better daytime stop than an evening one.
€€€€MediterraneanOld Town
Granary is the all-day eatery and espresso bar in central Heraklion, pouring Taf Roastery coffee alongside Mediterranean plates and Greek wine.
OrderSpecialty filter coffee and whatever is on the day plate
TipNamed for the Venetian grain store that once stood opposite the Ducal Palace, and it keeps a wide Greek wine list.
€€€€MediterraneanOld Town
Herb's Garden is the Heraklion rooftop for an occasion dinner, plating contemporary Greek food above the Venetian harbour from April to October.
OrderFresh fish with a Cretan white, watching the fortress
TipRooftop of the Lato Boutique Hotel, and seasonal: the team moves downstairs to Brillant from November to March.
€€€€MediterraneanOld Town
Lola is the sharpest small-plates cooking in central Heraklion, a compact room on Kydonias where Mediterranean technique meets Cretan produce.
OrderA spread of small plates and a glass of Cretan white
TipClosed Mondays. The room is small and popular with locals, so book if you want a table after 21:00.
€€€€MediterraneanVenetian Harbour
Sir Papafigos is a small, ambitious kitchen by the Heraklion harbour, plating shared courses in a dining room that seats a few dozen people.
OrderA run of small plates built for sharing
TipThe kitchen is shut on Wednesdays and only opens for lunch at weekends, so a Saturday or Sunday table is the easier one to book.
€€€€MediterraneanOld Town
Dish Bar holds a corner of Agios Titos square in Heraklion, pairing Mediterranean plates with a cocktail list and its nineties dance nights.
OrderTom's Temptation, passionfruit, caramel and lime
TipThe room is known for its nineties dance nights, so check the socials before planning an evening around one.
€€€€MediterraneanOld Town
Pagopoieion keeps one of the widest Greek wine lists in Heraklion, poured under the beams of a converted ice factory beside Agios Titos church.
OrderA Cretan red, with the mushroom risotto to match
TipThe ice-factory room is large enough to find a quiet corner even when Agios Titos square is full.
€€€€MediterraneanOld Town
Granary turns from espresso bar into wine room as the evening arrives, pouring Greek bottles with Mediterranean plates in central Heraklion.
OrderA glass of Cretan white with a mezze plate
TipWine service runs from late afternoon, once the coffee crowd thins out and the kitchen switches to the evening menu.
€€€€MediterraneanOld Town
Granary pours Taf Roastery coffee in central Heraklion, an espresso bar and eatery serving Mediterranean plates and Greek wine by the glass.
OrderFilter coffee and a plate off the day menu
TipOne of the few Heraklion rooms that genuinely works as a cafe, an eatery and a wine stop in turn.
€€€€MediterraneanVenetian Harbour
Mare Coffee Bar & Food is the seafront coffee stop in Heraklion, doing freddos, juices and sandwiches with the Cretan sea a few metres away.
OrderA freddo cappuccino with the sea in front of you
TipSeafront position on Sofokli Venizelou. Come for coffee rather than a full dinner and it never disappoints.
€€€€MediterraneanOld Town
Pagopoieion serves coffee under old ice-factory beams on Agios Titos square in Heraklion, with art shows and poetry readings through the week.
OrderMushroom risotto, with a glass off the Cretan list
TipThe old ice factory on Agios Titos square works as breakfast room, lunch stop and wine bar, so time your visit to the mood you want.
€€€€MediterraneanOld Town
Dish Bar keeps its Agios Titos square room going until four in the morning in Heraklion, with Mediterranean plates running alongside the cocktail list.
OrderBeef carpaccio with truffle mayonnaise, late
TipThe kitchen and the bar share one room on Agios Titos square, so a late plate is still possible after the tavernas close.
€€€€MediterraneanOld Town
Granary pours Taf Roastery coffee alongside a Mediterranean brunch menu in central Heraklion, from early breakfast through to a very late lunch.
OrderFilter coffee and whatever is on the day plate
TipAn espresso bar and eatery in one, so a slow brunch works here as easily as a coffee stop.
€€€€MediterraneanVenetian Harbour
Mare Coffee Bar & Food does breakfast on the Heraklion seafront, yogurt with honey, sandwiches and juices with the Cretan sea a few metres away.
OrderYogurt with nuts and honey, facing the water
TipThe seafront terrace is the point. Come for breakfast or a mid-morning coffee rather than a full dinner.
€€€€MediterraneanOld Town
Granary is where Heraklion drinks Taf Roastery coffee, an espresso bar and eatery in the old town pairing it with Mediterranean plates and wine.
OrderA filter coffee made with the Taf Roastery beans
TipGranary buys its beans from Taf Roastery rather than roasting in-house, and serves them alongside breakfast, brunch and lunch.