Le Bon Georges in Paris's 9e cooks farmer-named meat and a tarte tatin worth ordering before the main: the kitchen prep includes a 12-hour rest on the apples.
Signature: Côte de bœuf, Tarte tatin
Order: Côte de bœuf for two from a named Limousin farm, tarte tatin with crème fraîche.
Tip: The wine list is small but well-chosen; ask the waiter rather than the sommelier.
Bouillon Chartier has run a workers' canteen of a brasserie in Paris's 9e since 1896. The menu still puts œuf mayonnaise on for less than €3.
Signature: Œuf mayonnaise, Hachis Parmentier
Order: Œuf mayonnaise, hachis Parmentier, baba au rhum.
Tip: The queue moves; arrive at 11:30 for lunch or 18:30 for dinner and you sit fast.
Le Lipstick in Paris's 9e Pigalle is the former hostess bar on Rue Frochot reborn as a cocktail venue with a lesbian-and-queer crowd, vintage furniture.
Tip: Thursday is the easier walk-in; Friday-Saturday tables are tight from 22:00. Cocktails €13-15.
Le Carmen in Paris's 9e Pigalle is the salons-and-alcoves cocktail bar in the 19th-century Bizet residence on Rue Duperré, with caryatid columns.
Tip: Closed Sun-Mon; the first salon to the left is the calmer one. Cocktails €14-18.
L'Intrépide in Paris's 9e Pigalle is the Demory-owned craft beer dive on Rue Pierre Fontaine near the Moulin Rouge, with 12 taps, a Pyrenean charcuterie.
Tip: 12 taps with six Demory pours; basement gigs and DJ nights run Thursday-Saturday. Pints from €6.