Chez Magali ★ 4.5
Why locals love it: Tourists rarely make it to L'Estaque port; locals have eaten Magali's chichis here for 78 years.
Tip: Cash only; chichis straight from the oil, panisses by the dozen in a paper cone.
Epicerie L'Ideal in Marseille's 1er Noailles is Julia Sammut's general-store-gone-gourmet, a counter lunch built each morning from the shop's deli of Norwegian anchovies and Bordier butter.
Why locals love it: Julia Sammut's deli on Rue d'Aubagne in Noailles is run like a private kitchen for the neighbourhood that knows.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; the dinner-only room across the street is the spin-off.
Address: 11 Rue d'Aubagne, 13001 Marseille
Why locals love it: Tourists rarely make it to L'Estaque port; locals have eaten Magali's chichis here for 78 years.
Tip: Cash only; chichis straight from the oil, panisses by the dozen in a paper cone.
Why locals love it: Newer Endoume room mostly known by locals, Carry sea urchins and Marseille clams off the morning landing.
Tip: Reservations only Saturday and Sunday lunch; walk in on Wed-Fri evenings.
Why locals love it: Tucked at the foot of the Cours Julien stairs, easy to walk past, Lilian Gadola's daily menu changes each morning.
Tip: Book the bar for a single-pour-and-plate evening; closed Sunday and Monday.
Why locals love it: Cabanon kitchen in Les Goudes village 30 minutes south of the city, rocks-on-the-water seating most visitors miss.
Tip: Bus 19 from Rond-Point du Prado or taxi; book six weeks ahead.
Why locals love it: Small natural-wine room on Rue de Lodi most tourists never reach, full by 20:00 with neighbourhood regulars.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; book the bar for a small-plates dinner.
Why locals love it: Tiny Endoume coffee workshop most visitors never venture out to find, espresso bar at the counter.
Tip: Open Tue-Sat with a mid-afternoon split; whole bean retail to take home.