Cafe€€
Vanille Noire on Rue Caisserie in Le Panier serves up to 24 rotating ice cream flavours including the namesake vanille noire that stays year-round.
Why locals love it: Le Panier ice cream parlour on Rue Caisserie locals queue for, the vanille noire flavour stays year-round.
Tip: Up to 24 rotating flavours; second location at 2 Rue de Lorette.
Mediterranean€€
Epicerie L'Ideal in Marseille: Julia Sammut's deli on Rue d'Aubagne in Noailles is run like a private kitchen for the neighbourhood that knows.
Why locals love it: Julia Sammut's deli on Rue d'Aubagne in Noailles is run like a private kitchen for the neighbourhood that knows.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; the dinner-only room across the street is the spin-off.
Street food€€
Chez Magali in Marseille's L'Estaque port serves fried chichis and panisses by the dozen since 1947, paper cones eaten on the beachfront seawall.
Why locals love it: Tourists rarely make it to L'Estaque port; locals have eaten Magali's chichis here for 78 years.
Tip: Cash only; chichis straight from the oil, panisses by the dozen in a paper cone.
Seafood€€
L'Ecaillerie on Rue d'Endoume in Marseille's 7e serves Carry sea urchins and clams off the morning landing, a small Endoume room mostly known to locals.
Why locals love it: Newer Endoume room mostly known by locals, Carry sea urchins and Marseille clams off the morning landing.
Tip: Reservations only Saturday and Sunday lunch; walk in on Wed-Fri evenings.
French bistro€€
Limmat at the foot of the Cours Julien stairs in Marseille's 6e runs a daily changing menu by Lilian Gadola, bar seating for a single-pour-and-plate evening.
Why locals love it: Tucked at the foot of the Cours Julien stairs, easy to walk past, Lilian Gadola's daily menu changes each morning.
Tip: Book the bar for a single-pour-and-plate evening; closed Sunday and Monday.
Mediterranean€€
Tuba Club in the Goudes village south of Marseille is a cabanon kitchen with rocks-on-the-water seating, grilled fish from the morning boats.
Why locals love it: Cabanon kitchen in Les Goudes village 30 minutes south of the city, rocks-on-the-water seating most visitors miss.
Tip: Bus 19 from Rond-Point du Prado or taxi; book six weeks ahead.