Mediterranean€€
Tuba Club in the Goudes village south of Marseille is a cabanon kitchen with rocks-on-the-water seating, grilled fish from the morning boats.
Why locals love it: Cabanon kitchen in Les Goudes village 30 minutes south of the city, rocks-on-the-water seating most visitors miss.
Tip: Bus 19 from Rond-Point du Prado or taxi; book six weeks ahead.
Wine bar€€
Pepie on Rue de Lodi in Marseille's 6e is a small natural-wine room with small plates, full by 20:00 with neighbourhood regulars and closed Sunday and Monday.
Why locals love it: Small natural-wine room on Rue de Lodi most tourists never reach, full by 20:00 with neighbourhood regulars.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; book the bar for a small-plates dinner.
Cafe€€
La Tisserie on Rue d'Endoume in Marseille's 7e is a tiny coffee workshop with espresso bar at the counter and whole bean retail to take home, open Tue to Sat.
Why locals love it: Tiny Endoume coffee workshop most visitors never venture out to find, espresso bar at the counter.
Tip: Open Tue-Sat with a mid-afternoon split; whole bean retail to take home.
Cafe€€
Vanille Noire on Rue Caisserie in Le Panier serves up to 24 rotating ice cream flavours including the namesake vanille noire that stays year-round.
Why locals love it: Le Panier ice cream parlour on Rue Caisserie locals queue for, the vanille noire flavour stays year-round.
Tip: Up to 24 rotating flavours; second location at 2 Rue de Lorette.
Mediterranean€€
Epicerie L'Ideal in Marseille: Julia Sammut's deli on Rue d'Aubagne in Noailles is run like a private kitchen for the neighbourhood that knows.
Why locals love it: Julia Sammut's deli on Rue d'Aubagne in Noailles is run like a private kitchen for the neighbourhood that knows.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; the dinner-only room across the street is the spin-off.
Street food€€
Chez Magali in Marseille's L'Estaque port serves fried chichis and panisses by the dozen since 1947, paper cones eaten on the beachfront seawall.
Why locals love it: Tourists rarely make it to L'Estaque port; locals have eaten Magali's chichis here for 78 years.
Tip: Cash only; chichis straight from the oil, panisses by the dozen in a paper cone.