History

Chicons au gratin became a Belgian household staple in the 1850s after the endive (Witloof) was famously cultivated by accident in the dark Brussels Botanical Garden cellars. The ham-and-béchamel preparation crystallised by the 1920s. Au Vieux Saint Martin and Au Stekerlapatte both run defensible versions through the winter months.

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Common allergens: Dairy, Gluten

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 35 minTotal 1 hr 15 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 8 large Belgian endives (chicons), trimmed
  • 8 thick slices cooked ham (jambon de Paris), about 200g total
  • 40g unsalted butter (for braising)
  • 1 tsp caster sugar
  • 1 tbsp lemon juice
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 60g unsalted butter (for béchamel)
  • 60g plain flour
  • 750ml whole milk, warm
  • 1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
  • 150g aged Gruyère cheese, grated
  • 50g aged Gouda or Emmental cheese, grated
  • Boiled potatoes or country bread, to serve

Method

  1. Cut a deep cone out of the base of each endive to remove the bitter core. Slice each lengthways into halves if very large.
  2. Melt 40g butter in a wide pan over medium heat. Add the endives cut-side down, sprinkle with sugar and lemon juice, season with salt.
  3. Cover and braise gently for 15 to 20 minutes, turning halfway, until tender and golden on the cut sides. Drain on kitchen paper to remove excess liquid.
  4. Heat the oven to 200C. Lightly butter a baking dish.
  5. For the béchamel, melt 60g butter in a heavy pan. Whisk in the flour and cook 2 minutes to a pale roux.
  6. Whisk in the warm milk a third at a time, letting it thicken between additions. Simmer 4 minutes until silky.
  7. Stir in the nutmeg, salt, pepper and 100g of the Gruyère. Take off the heat.
  8. Wrap each endive in a slice of ham and place in the buttered baking dish.
  9. Pour the béchamel over evenly. Scatter with the remaining Gruyère and the Gouda.
  10. Bake for 25 minutes until the top is deep golden and bubbling. Let stand 5 minutes before serving with boiled potatoes.

Tip from the editors. Cut the bitter core out and drain braised endives well; both steps stop the gratin going watery. Double cheese (Gruyère melt, aged Gouda brown) is the trick.

Where to eat chicons au gratin

Chicons au gratin in Brussels

Au Vieux Saint Martin ★ 4.3

€€ BelgianUntil Daily 00:00

Au Vieux Saint Martin in Brussels' Sablon runs a continuous service from noon to midnight, every day. Filet americain prepared at the table.

TryFilet americain

Directions

Au Stekerlapatte ★ 4.0

€€ Belgian

Au Stekerlapatte is side-street marolles bistro where locals eat boudin noir with caramelised apples on the same wood-panelled banquettes since 1974.

Why locals goSide-street Marolles bistro where locals eat boudin noir with caramelised apples on the same wood-panelled banquettes since 1974.

TipClosed Sunday. Open evenings only; the dining room fills with regulars night after night.

Directions

Aux Armes de Bruxelles ★ 4.2

€€ BelgianUntil Daily 22:30

Aux Armes de Bruxelles in Brussels keeps the kitchen open until 22:30 every night. At Rue des Bouchers 13. Booking recommended. Reservations advised.

TryWaterzooi and croquettes

Directions

Brasserie Ploegmans ★ 4.1

€€ Belgian BrasserieMarolles

Brasserie Ploegmans in Brussels' Marolles is the wood-panelled local that runs Belgian standards: meatballs, shrimp croquettes, choucroute garnie.

OrderCarbonnade flamande with frites, and a Westvleteren 12 if it is on the board.

TipClosed Monday. Book ahead for Sunday lunch when the Jeu de Balle flea market is in full swing.

Directions

All Brussels signature dishes →

Chicons au gratin in Lille

Chez Raoul Estaminet ★ 4.1

€€ French regionalVieux Lille

Chez Raoul on Rue de Gand in Lille is named for the singer Raoul de Godewarsvelde, an estaminet of chicken in maroilles, fricadelle and charcuterie boards.

OrderGratin de chicons, endives baked in ham and béchamel.

TipClosed Monday and Wednesday lunch. Saturday runs a long afternoon service then reopens late.

Directions

Estaminet Au Vieux de la Vieille ★ 4.2

€€ French regionalVieux Lille

Au Vieux de la Vieille spills onto the cobbles of Rue des Vieux Murs in Lille, the terrace estaminet locals send visitors to for carbonade and welsh.

Why locals goIt sits on the tiny Place aux Oignons rather than the main circuit, which keeps the terrace calm on a busy Saturday.

TipTake the terrace on Place aux Oignons rather than a table inside. It is the quieter side.

Directions

All Lille signature dishes →

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