Au Vieux Saint Martin ★ 4.3
Au Vieux Saint Martin in Brussels' Sablon runs a continuous service from noon to midnight, every day. Filet americain prepared at the table.
Try: Filet americain
History
Chicons au gratin became a Belgian household staple in the 1850s after the endive (Witloof) was famously cultivated by accident in the dark Brussels Botanical Garden cellars. The ham-and-béchamel preparation crystallised by the 1920s. Au Vieux Saint Martin and Au Stekerlapatte both run defensible versions through the winter months.
Common allergens: Dairy, Gluten
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 8 large Belgian endives (chicons), trimmed
- 8 thick slices cooked ham (jambon de Paris), about 200g total
- 40g unsalted butter (for braising)
- 1 tsp caster sugar
- 1 tbsp lemon juice
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 60g unsalted butter (for béchamel)
- 60g plain flour
- 750ml whole milk, warm
- 1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
- 150g aged Gruyère cheese, grated
- 50g aged Gouda or Emmental cheese, grated
- Boiled potatoes or country bread, to serve
Method
- Cut a deep cone out of the base of each endive to remove the bitter core. Slice each lengthways into halves if very large.
- Melt 40g butter in a wide pan over medium heat. Add the endives cut-side down, sprinkle with sugar and lemon juice, season with salt.
- Cover and braise gently for 15 to 20 minutes, turning halfway, until tender and golden on the cut sides. Drain on kitchen paper to remove excess liquid.
- Heat the oven to 200C. Lightly butter a baking dish.
- For the béchamel, melt 60g butter in a heavy pan. Whisk in the flour and cook 2 minutes to a pale roux.
- Whisk in the warm milk a third at a time, letting it thicken between additions. Simmer 4 minutes until silky.
- Stir in the nutmeg, salt, pepper and 100g of the Gruyère. Take off the heat.
- Wrap each endive in a slice of ham and place in the buttered baking dish.
- Pour the béchamel over evenly. Scatter with the remaining Gruyère and the Gouda.
- Bake for 25 minutes until the top is deep golden and bubbling. Let stand 5 minutes before serving with boiled potatoes.
Tip from the editors. Cut the bitter core out and drain braised endives well; both steps stop the gratin going watery. Double cheese (Gruyère melt, aged Gouda brown) is the trick.
Where to eat chicons au gratin
Chicons au gratin in Brussels
Au Stekerlapatte ★ 4.0
Au Stekerlapatte is side-street marolles bistro where locals eat boudin noir with caramelised apples on the same wood-panelled banquettes since 1974.
Why locals love it: Side-street Marolles bistro where locals eat boudin noir with caramelised apples on the same wood-panelled banquettes since 1974.
Tip: Closed Sunday. Open evenings only; the dining room fills with regulars night after night.
Aux Armes de Bruxelles ★ 4.2
Aux Armes de Bruxelles in Brussels keeps the kitchen open until 22:30 every night. At Rue des Bouchers 13. Booking recommended. Reservations advised.
Try: Waterzooi and croquettes
Brasserie Ploegmans ★ 4.1
Brasserie Ploegmans in Brussels' Marolles is the wood-panelled local that runs Belgian standards: meatballs, shrimp croquettes, choucroute garnie.
Signature: Carbonnade flamande, Shrimp croquettes
Order: Carbonnade flamande with frites, and a Westvleteren 12 if it is on the board.
Tip: Closed Monday. Book ahead for Sunday lunch when the Jeu de Balle flea market is in full swing.
Chicons au gratin in Lille
Chez Raoul Estaminet ★ 4.1
Chez Raoul on Rue de Gand in Lille is named for the singer Raoul de Godewarsvelde, an estaminet of chicken in maroilles, fricadelle and charcuterie boards.
Signature: Gratin de chicons, Welsh au maroilles
Order: Gratin de chicons, endives baked in ham and béchamel.
Tip: Closed Monday and Wednesday lunch. Saturday runs a long afternoon service then reopens late.
Estaminet Au Vieux de la Vieille ★ 4.2
Au Vieux de la Vieille spills onto the cobbles of Rue des Vieux Murs in Lille, the terrace estaminet locals send visitors to for carbonade and welsh.
Why locals love it: It sits on the tiny Place aux Oignons rather than the main circuit, which keeps the terrace calm on a busy Saturday.
Tip: Take the terrace on Place aux Oignons rather than a table inside. It is the quieter side.
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