Ester ★ 4.7
Mat Lindsay's two-hat wood-fired room on Meagher Street, Chippendale, Sydney. Open since 2013; the fermented potato bread is a decade-long mainstay.
Firedoor is a wood-fired australian fine-dining restaurant in Surry Hills, Sydney.
Lennox Hastie's two-hat fire-only kitchen in Surry Hills, Sydney. Two wood-fired ovens, three grills, no gas: dry-aged steak and seasonal Australian produce.
Address: 23-33 Mary Street, Surry Hills NSW 2010, Sydney
Mat Lindsay's two-hat wood-fired room on Meagher Street, Chippendale, Sydney. Open since 2013; the fermented potato bread is a decade-long mainstay.
Pasi Petanen's two-hat Finnish-meets-Asian room on King Street in Newtown, Sydney. Set menu only, snacks-to-dessert with sharp matched wines.
Jordan Toft's brasserie above The Newport on Sydney's northern beaches. Oysters, lobster and Mediterranean coast cooking in a 1930s-styled room.
Brent Savage's two-hat vegetarian tasting menu on Macleay Street, Potts Point, Sydney. Six-course seasonal menu, fine-dining vegan options always.
Matt Moran's two-hat Aria has held its harbour outlook since 1999 on Macquarie Street, Sydney. Executive chef Tom Gorringe runs the line under Moran's name.
Two-hat Mediterranean room atop Sydney CBD's Shell House. Joel Bickford runs wood-roasted seafood and seasonal Australian produce at rooftop level.