Porteno ★ 4.6
Argentine asado on Holt Street, Surry Hills, Sydney. Hand-cut meats over parilla and pit fire, all-night low-and-slow, long-running Cumulus alumni room.
Signature: Asado-style lamb, Suckling pig, Choripan
Sydney's coffee capital and dining heartland. Terraces, laneway roasters, Mary Street fire cooks, the city's densest concentration of bistros and wine bars.
Argentine asado on Holt Street, Surry Hills, Sydney. Hand-cut meats over parilla and pit fire, all-night low-and-slow, long-running Cumulus alumni room.
Signature: Asado-style lamb, Suckling pig, Choripan
Daniel Pepperell's modern Italian room on Crown Street, Surry Hills, Sydney. House-made pastas, classic Roman-Milanese plates, no-fuss room.
Signature: Saltimbocca, Spaghetti vongole, Tiramisu
Casual contemporary Australian dining on Riley Street, Surry Hills, Sydney. Wood-fired sourdough, share plates, the kind of room locals book on repeat.
Signature: Wood-fired sourdough, Lamb shoulder, Stracciatella with stone fruit
Lennox Hastie's two-hat fire-only kitchen in Surry Hills, Sydney. Two wood-fired ovens, three grills, no gas: dry-aged steak and seasonal Australian produce.
Jacqui Challinor's Mediterranean warehouse on Foster Street, Surry Hills, Sydney. Wood-fired roasts, house-cured charcuterie, deep local-wine list.
Modern Thai institution on Commonwealth Street, Surry Hills, Sydney. The caramelised pork hock has stayed on the menu for more than two decades.
Signature: Caramelised pork hock, Eggnet salad, Crispy fish salad
Order: Caramelised pork hock with five-spice and chilli.
Tip: Communal long-table seating; bookings recommended on weekends.
Sydney specialty coffee pioneer on Reservoir Street, Surry Hills. Single O has roasted since 2003; the milk-on-tap system and filter flights set the room.
Signature drink: Filter coffee flight
South American-leaning cafe and roastery on Albion Street, Surry Hills, Sydney. Regular booking for Sydney's brunch and specialty-coffee scene.
Signature drink: Single-origin filter
PCP on Commonwealth Street, Surry Hills, Sydney serves rotating roasters and a Pasi Petanen-trained breakfast menu inside the old Paramount Studios building.
Signature drink: Single-origin espresso
The original Bourke Street Bakery on Bourke Street, Surry Hills, Sydney since 2004. Sausage rolls, sourdough loaves and a takeaway counter daily.
Signature drink: Flat white
Modern Asian-Aussie cafe on Devonshire Street, Surry Hills, Sydney. Sydney brunch and specialty-coffee staple with a consistent local crowd.
Signature drink: Flat white
Sydney's most-imitated bakery on Bourke Street, Surry Hills. Open daily from 7am; the bacon-and-egg ciabatta roll is the menu signature, retail till 4pm.
Worth the queue: Pork and fennel sausage roll
Pie shop and pastry counter on Buckingham Street, Surry Hills, Sydney from Eight by Andrew McConnell alumni. Strong pastry program, weekend queues from open.
Worth the queue: Curry beef hand-pie
Italian-leaning bakery on Foveaux Street, Surry Hills, Sydney. Sister to Porteño and Bastardo; panettone, sfogliatelle and cornetti from the morning batch.
Worth the queue: Panettone slice
Sydney specialty pioneer on Reservoir Street, Surry Hills. Single O has roasted at this site since 2003; the solar-powered roastery now sits in Botany.
Sources from: Ethiopia, Colombia, Brazil, Honduras
How they serve: Espresso, Filter, Whole bean retail, Subscription
South American-focused roaster on Albion Street, Surry Hills, Sydney. Russell Beard's team roasts on-site behind the cafe; single-origin only across drinks.
Sources from: Colombia, Honduras, Ecuador, Peru
How they serve: Espresso, Filter, Whole bean retail
Surry Hills specialty cafe on Crown Street, Sydney. Tight rotating guest roaster program from Australia and Europe; espresso-and-grilled-cheese morning crowd.
Sources from: Ethiopia, Honduras, Brazil
How they serve: Espresso, Filter, Whole bean retail
Sample's Surry Hills satellite on Bedford Street, Sydney. Single-origin filter and espresso from the St Peters roastery; takeaway-only counter, weekday focus.
Sources from: Ethiopia, Kenya, Colombia
How they serve: Espresso, Filter, Whole bean retail
Italian-leaning wine bar on Devonshire Street, Surry Hills, Sydney. Italian small plates, low-intervention bottles by the glass, late seating common.
Signature pour: Nebbiolo from Piedmont
Wine focus: Italian wines by the glass
Food: Pasta and aperitivo bites
Eastern European-leaning wine bar on Devonshire Street, Surry Hills, Sydney. Natural-leaning by-the-glass list, walk-in friendly weeknights, small plates.
Signature pour: Slovenian orange wine
Wine focus: Eastern European and natural growers
Food: Eastern European snacks
Two-storey Irish whiskey bar on Campbell Street, Surry Hills, Sydney. Live music upstairs, 200+ Irish whiskeys behind the bar. Open Tue-Sun from 5pm.
Signature drink: Irish coffee
Food: Snacks
Mexican spirits and beer bar on Foster Street, Surry Hills, Sydney. Modelo on tap, micheladas, tortas at midnight, a cult crowd of bartenders.
Signature drink: Michelada
Food: Mexican snacks
Long-running cocktail dive on Crown Street, Surry Hills, Sydney. Late-night daiquiris, the toasted-sandwich menu after midnight, dark room, no fuss.
Signature drink: Daiquiri
Food: Toasties
Bourke Street Bakery's lamb-and-harissa sausage roll on Bourke Street, Surry Hills, Sydney. The single most-ordered savoury bake in the Sydney chain.
Try: Lamb-and-harissa sausage roll
Sydney walking food tour from Secret Food Tours. Seven tasting stops from Oxford Street into Surry Hills with a local food guide; small-group bookings only.
Latin American brunch and roastery on Albion Street, Surry Hills, Sydney. The Colombian arepa, huevos rancheros and single-origin filter coffee.
Order: Huevos rancheros or the Colombian arepa.
Specialty coffee anchor on Reservoir Street, Surry Hills, Sydney. Coffee flights, simple breakfast bowls, the city's longest-running specialty espresso bar.
Order: Filter flight with a sourdough toastie.
Late-night cocktail dive on Crown Street, Surry Hills, Sydney. Toasted sandwiches after midnight, daiquiris all night in a dim, narrow room.
Try: Toasted sandwich