French$$$south-yarraDaily 12:00-00:00
France-Soir on Toorak Road has served classical French food since 1982: the menu barely changes, theatrical service and an honest wine list.
Order: Steak frites with French mustard and frisee salad
Tip: Book ahead for Friday and Saturday evenings: it fills well before 8pm.
Vietnamese$collingwoodDaily 11:00-21:00
Good Days on Smith Street is Collingwood's Vietnamese pho anchor: aromatic broth, fresh noodles and regulars who know what they want before they sit down.
Order: Beef pho with tendon and fresh bean sprouts
Italian$$$cbdTue-Sat 11:30-15:00, 17:30 until late
Roma on Collins Street is Melbourne's most disciplined Roman trattoria: cacio e pepe tableside, proper tonnarelli and a small menu that refuses to overstep.
Order: Tonnarelli cacio e pepe, tableside
Italian Pizza$$collingwoodWed-Fri 16:00-21:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-21:30
Rita's in Abbotsford makes semolina-crusted pizzas with wood-fired char most pizza rooms approximate: small room, short menu, real consistency.
Order: Semolina-crusted pizza with anchovy and olive
Japanese$$collingwoodDaily 11:00-15:00
Suupaa in Cremorne takes the Japanese konbini as inspiration and applies serious cooking: the udon bolognese beats most Italian noodle dishes in the city.
Order: Udon bolognese with parmesan and soft egg
Middle Eastern$$$collingwoodTue-Sat from 17:30
Zareh on Smith Street brings Armenian and Lebanese cooking with a charcoal focus that makes it one of Melbourne's most exciting casual rooms.
Order: Chargrilled flatbread with yoghurt and lamb fat