French$$$south-yarraDaily 12pm-12am
France-Soir has been Melbourne's Parisian bistro since 1982: the menu barely changes, the wine list is legendary and the room feels uncannily right.
Order: Steak au poivre with pommes frites and a glass of Burgundy
Tip: Book by phone. This is still a phone-booking-only restaurant and they mean it.
Vietnamese$richmondDaily 9am-9:30pm
Pho Hung Vuong 2 on Victoria Street is Melbourne's pho standard-bearer: long-simmered broth with charred onion and ginger, piled with fresh herbs.
Order: Rare beef and brisket pho with bean sprouts and fresh herbs
Greek$$south-yarraTue-Sun 5pm-10:30pm
Aegli on Coventry Street leads Melbourne's new Greek wave: regional Hellenic flavours, smoked saganaki and lamb shoulder in a South Melbourne room.
Order: Wood-roasted lamb with orzo and feta
Modern Australian$$$fitzroyTue-Sat 5:30pm until late, Sun 12pm-5pm
Bar Liberty in Fitzroy holds one Good Food Guide hat: Melbourne's natural-wine bistro of record, with small plates, biodynamic pours and a polished kitchen.
Order: Seasonal raw bar plate and house bread with cultured butter
French$$cbdMon-Fri 7am-late, Sat-Sun 8am-late
Maison Batard on Bourke Street combines boulangerie, bistro, cocktail bar and terrace: Melbourne's closest equivalent to a full-service Parisian house.
Order: French onion soup and the daily rotisserie plate
Malaysian$$cbdTue-Sun 11:30am-9:30pm
Ho Jiak in Rainbow Alley is Melbourne's best Malaysian kitchen: noodle dishes referencing Penang and KL regional traditions with roti made in the open.
Order: Curry mee noodles with coconut milk broth