Bistros, trattorias, taverns and neighbourhood rooms: the mid-tier places where Portland actually eats.

Where to eat well, no fuss

Nong's Khao Man Gai ★ 4.5

Thai$hawthorne-belmont

Nong Poonsukwattana's Thai chicken-and-rice counter in southeast Portland, started as a 2009 food cart and now the canonical khao man gai in town.

Signature: Khao man gai, Pandan chicken

Order: Khao man gai with the house ginger-soy sauce

Tip: Two locations: SE Ankeny is the original cart-turned-shop. SW 13th Ave is the downtown counter.

Hat Yai ★ 4.6

Southern Thai$alberta-arts

Earl Ninsom and Alan Akwai's Southern Thai chicken shop in NE Portland, with rice-flour-battered free-range chicken and sweet-spicy chili sauce.

Signature: Fried chicken, Roti and curry

Order: The three-piece fried chicken plate with curry roti

Tip: Two outposts (Killingsworth, Belmont) and a stall at Eem Pod. Killingsworth is the original room.

Hat Yai Belmont ★ 4.5

Southern Thai$hawthorne-belmont

The Belmont outpost of Earl Ninsom's Southern Thai chicken concept in Portland, with rice-flour fried chicken, khao soi and walk-in counter seating.

Signature: Fried chicken, Khao soi

Order: Khao soi with the half chicken

Tip: Counter ordering, table service. Open daily 11:30-21:00. No reservations.

Screen Door Eastside ★ 4.5

Southern American$$east-burnside-kerns

Nicole and David Mouton's Southern dining room on E Burnside in Portland since 2006, the canonical Portland fried-chicken plate and a published hushpuppy.

Signature: Buttermilk fried chicken and sweet potato waffles, Praline bacon and biscuits

Order: Buttermilk fried chicken on a sweet potato waffle with hot honey

Tip: Brunch 08:30-14:00, dinner 16:30-21:00 daily. Reservations for the dining room; bar takes walk-ins.

Tin Shed Garden Cafe ★ 4.2

American Brunch$$alberta-arts

The LGBTQ-, women- and veteran-owned brunch garden on NE Alberta in Portland, with topping-layered potato cakes, vegan tofu bowls and pineapple mimosas.

Signature: Biscuits and bacon gravy, Vegan tofu bowl

Order: The biscuits and bacon gravy with potato cakes

Tip: Dog-friendly with a doggie menu. The covered patio is the seat to ask for in summer.

Apizza Scholls ★ 4.6

Pizza$$hawthorne-belmont

Brian and Kim Spangler's 18-inch sourdough pies on SE Hawthorne in Portland, in business since 2004 and still the canonical Portland Neapolitan pizza.

Signature: Pizza margherita, Calzone

Order: The classic Margherita with house mozzarella

Tip: Phone orders open at 16:00. Dough sells out on weekends; arrive by 17:30 or risk no pie.

Lovely's Fifty Fifty ★ 4.6

Pizzeria$$mississippi-williams

The Smith family's whole-grain sourdough pizza and house-churned ice cream room on N Mississippi in Portland, all foraged toppings and seasonal flavours.

Signature: Wood-fired pizza, House-made ice cream

Order: The pie with chanterelles and fontina, in season

Tip: Walk-in only with a handful of booths. The ice cream rotates weekly with foraged flavours.

Ken's Artisan Pizza ★ 4.5

Wood-fired Pizza$$hawthorne-belmont

Ken Forkish's wood-fired pizza room on SE 28th in Portland, the pizza arm of his bakery empire with naturally leavened dough and seasonal toppings.

Signature: Wood-fired margherita, Monday-night meatballs

Order: The margherita with house-cured pepperoni

Tip: Reservations on Tock for the dining room. Monday-night meatballs sell out by 19:00.

Bamboo Sushi ★ 4.3

Japanese$$hawthorne-belmont

The world's first certified sustainable sushi room, born in Portland in 2008. The SE 28th flagship runs nigiri, rolls and the wagyu burger. Priced at $$.

Signature: Nigiri sustainable platter, Wagyu burger

Order: The chef's choice nigiri platter

Tip: Four Portland locations. The SE 28th room is the original, with the longest sake list.

Lardo ★ 4.3

Sandwiches$hawthorne-belmont

Rick Gencarelli's chef-driven sandwich shop on SE Hawthorne in Portland, founded as a 2010 food cart and four-time Willamette Week Best Sandwich winner.

Signature: Pork meatball banh mi, Dirty fries

Order: The dirty fries: cut fries with pork scraps and marinated peppers

Tip: Counter order. The chefwich rotates monthly and is a collaboration with a guest chef.

Jacqueline ★ 4.5

Seafood$$division-clinton

The Clinton Street seafood and oyster room in Portland that moved to a bigger SE 25th and Clinton space in November 2024. Oysters, crab, cocktails.

Signature: Oysters on the half-shell, Dungeness crab roll

Order: A half-dozen Pacific oysters and a martini

Tip: Oyster happy hour from 16:00-17:30 weekdays. The bar takes walk-ins; the dining room books on Resy.

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