James Murphy's natural-wine room on Grand Street has set the bar for Williamsburg wine bars in New York City since 2015. One Michelin star, no big-name labels, all-organic list.
Food program: Small plates by Nick Curtola
Tip: Reservations open four weeks ahead on Resy. Counter walk-ins from 17:00; the snack menu runs the whole night.
Address: 295 Grand Street, Brooklyn, NY 11211, New York City
Wildair on Orchard Street has poured natural wine in the Lower East Side, New York City since 2015. Twenty pours by the glass, snacks-only menu, walk-in friendly counter.
Signature pour: Lapierre Morgon by the glass
Wine focus: Lo-fi natural wines, mostly French
Food: Snacks and small plates
Tip: The hamachi crudo is the cross-glass food order. Wednesday and Thursday are the easy walk-in nights.
Rosella's sushi-and-wine room on First Avenue runs an Italian and Japanese list in the East Village, New York City. Sustainable fish, Etna and Sicilian whites by the glass.
Signature pour: COS Cerasuolo di Vittoria by the glass
Wine focus: Italian regionals, Sicily heavy
Food: Sushi and small plates
Tip: Counter seats for omakase wine pairings book three weeks out. The sashimi-and-Sancerre walk-in deal is the easy go.
Kashkaval Garden on Ninth Avenue pours Greek and Lebanese wines in Hell's Kitchen, New York City. Mezze platters, three-cheese fondues, a back garden in warm months.
Signature pour: Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko by the glass
Wine focus: Eastern Mediterranean and Greek
Food: Mezze and fondue
Tip: The mixed mezze platter for four feeds five. Greek wine list runs deeper than the small bar suggests; ask the sommelier.
Ardesia on West 52nd Street has poured French wines in Hell's Kitchen, New York City since 2010. Twenty pours by the glass, charcuterie boards, late-night cheese plates.
Signature pour: Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont sec
Wine focus: Old World wines, Loire and Burgundy heavy
Food: Snacks and charcuterie
Tip: Post-theatre walk-ins after 22:30 are easy. The Vouvray Le Mont is the under-$20-by-the-glass standout.
Ten Bells on Broome Street has run a natural-wine room in the Lower East Side, New York City since 2008. Chalkboard list, oysters, dim candlelight, no reservations.
Signature pour: Domaine Cousin Loup
Wine focus: Natural French wines
Food: Oysters and small plates
Tip: Walk in at 18:00 to claim a counter seat. Tuesday is one-buck-an-oyster from 18:00 to 20:00.
Compagnie des Vins on Centre Street is the New York City arm of the Paris natural-wine bar. Biodynamic Beaujolais, Loire whites, tartines, candle-lit zinc bar.
Signature pour: Domaine Yvon Metras Fleurie
Wine focus: Natural French wines, biodynamic
Food: Charcuterie and tartines
Tip: Bookings via Resy three weeks out for tables. The bar counter takes walk-ins from 17:30; the seats fill by 18:30.
