Wine bars in New York City. natural, classical, and the grower-focused rooms worth the cab fare.

Where to drink wine

The Four Horsemen ★ 4.8

$$$ Wine barWilliamsburg

James Murphy's natural-wine room on Grand Street has set the bar for Williamsburg wine bars in New York City since 2015. At 295 Grand Street.

PourDomaine de la Pinte Arbois savagnin

WineNatural wines from France, Italy, Germany, Austria

FoodSmall plates by Nick Curtola

TipReservations open four weeks ahead on Resy. Counter walk-ins from 17:00; the snack menu runs the whole night.

Wildair ★ 4.7

$$$ Wine barLower East Side

Wildair on Orchard Street has poured natural wine in the Lower East Side, New York City since 2015. Twenty pours by the glass, snacks-only menu.

PourLapierre Morgon by the glass

WineLo-fi natural wines, mostly French

FoodSnacks and small plates

TipThe hamachi crudo is the cross-glass food order. Wednesday and Thursday are the easy walk-in nights.

Rosella ★ 4.2

$$$ Wine barEast Village

Rosella's sushi-and-wine room on First Avenue runs an Italian and Japanese list in the East Village, New York City. Open tue-sun 17:30-23:00.

PourCOS Cerasuolo di Vittoria by the glass

WineItalian regionals, Sicily heavy

FoodSushi and small plates

TipCounter seats for omakase wine pairings book three weeks out. The sashimi-and-Sancerre walk-in deal is the easy go.

Kashkaval Garden ★ 4.0

$$$ Wine barMidtown

Kashkaval Garden on Ninth Avenue pours Greek and Lebanese wines in Hell's Kitchen, New York City. Located in Midtown. Open daily 16:00-24:00.

PourDomaine Sigalas Assyrtiko by the glass

WineEastern Mediterranean and Greek

FoodMezze and fondue

TipThe mixed mezze platter for four feeds five. Greek wine list runs deeper than the small bar suggests; ask the sommelier.

Ardesia ★ 4.1

$$$ Wine barMidtown

Ardesia on West 52nd Street has poured French wines in Hell's Kitchen, New York City since 2010. Twenty pours by the glass, charcuterie boards.

PourDomaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont sec

WineOld World wines, Loire and Burgundy heavy

FoodSnacks and charcuterie

TipPost-theatre walk-ins after 22:30 are easy. The Vouvray Le Mont is the under-$20-by-the-glass standout.

Ten Bells ★ 4.5

$$$ Wine barLower East Side

Ten Bells on Broome Street has run a natural-wine room in the Lower East Side, New York City since 2008. Chalkboard list, oysters, dim candlelight.

PourDomaine Cousin Loup

WineNatural French wines

FoodOysters and small plates

TipWalk in at 18:00 to claim a counter seat. Tuesday is one-buck-an-oyster from 18:00-20:00.

Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels ★ 4.4

$$$ Wine barSoho

Compagnie des Vins on Centre Street is the New York City arm of the Paris natural-wine bar. Located in Soho. Open mon-sat 17:30-24:00. At 249 Centre Street.

PourDomaine Yvon Metras Fleurie

WineNatural French wines, biodynamic

FoodCharcuterie and tartines

TipBookings via Resy three weeks out for tables. The bar counter takes walk-ins from 17:30; the seats fill by 18:30.

June ★ 4.3

$$$ Wine barCobble Hill

June on Court Street has poured natural wine in Cobble Hill, New York City since 2017. Forty bottles by the glass, snack-and-small-plate menu.

PourLucy Margaux Sauvignon Blanc

WineNatural wines, Australian and French focus

FoodSnacks and small plates

TipIndustry night is Monday; the room fills with line cooks comparing notes. Tuesday is the calm seat.

Ops ★ 4.6

$$$ Wine barBushwick

Ops on Himrod Street pairs naturally leavened wood-fired pizza with Italian natural wines in Bushwick Brooklyn, New York City. Open tue-sun 17:30-23:00.

PourCOS Pithos rosso by the glass

WineItalian natural wines

FoodNaturally leavened pizza

TipSix tables and a counter; reservations open three weeks ahead. The marinara pie with the COS Pithos is the order.

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