Where to drink well in New York City by the glass and the bottle: natural, classical, and worth the cab fare.
Wine bars in New York City. natural, classical, and the grower-focused rooms worth the cab fare.
James Murphy's natural-wine room on Grand Street has set the bar for Williamsburg wine bars in New York City since 2015. At 295 Grand Street.
Signature pour: Domaine de la Pinte Arbois savagnin
Wine focus: Natural wines from France, Italy, Germany, Austria
Food: Small plates by Nick Curtola
Tip: Reservations open four weeks ahead on Resy. Counter walk-ins from 17:00; the snack menu runs the whole night.
Wildair on Orchard Street has poured natural wine in the Lower East Side, New York City since 2015. Twenty pours by the glass, snacks-only menu.
Signature pour: Lapierre Morgon by the glass
Wine focus: Lo-fi natural wines, mostly French
Food: Snacks and small plates
Tip: The hamachi crudo is the cross-glass food order. Wednesday and Thursday are the easy walk-in nights.
Rosella's sushi-and-wine room on First Avenue runs an Italian and Japanese list in the East Village, New York City. Open tue-sun 17:30-23:00.
Signature pour: COS Cerasuolo di Vittoria by the glass
Wine focus: Italian regionals, Sicily heavy
Food: Sushi and small plates
Tip: Counter seats for omakase wine pairings book three weeks out. The sashimi-and-Sancerre walk-in deal is the easy go.
Kashkaval Garden on Ninth Avenue pours Greek and Lebanese wines in Hell's Kitchen, New York City. Located in Midtown. Open daily 16:00-24:00.
Signature pour: Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko by the glass
Wine focus: Eastern Mediterranean and Greek
Food: Mezze and fondue
Tip: The mixed mezze platter for four feeds five. Greek wine list runs deeper than the small bar suggests; ask the sommelier.
Ardesia on West 52nd Street has poured French wines in Hell's Kitchen, New York City since 2010. Twenty pours by the glass, charcuterie boards.
Signature pour: Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont sec
Wine focus: Old World wines, Loire and Burgundy heavy
Food: Snacks and charcuterie
Tip: Post-theatre walk-ins after 22:30 are easy. The Vouvray Le Mont is the under-$20-by-the-glass standout.
Ten Bells on Broome Street has run a natural-wine room in the Lower East Side, New York City since 2008. Chalkboard list, oysters, dim candlelight.
Signature pour: Domaine Cousin Loup
Wine focus: Natural French wines
Food: Oysters and small plates
Tip: Walk in at 18:00 to claim a counter seat. Tuesday is one-buck-an-oyster from 18:00-20:00.
Compagnie des Vins on Centre Street is the New York City arm of the Paris natural-wine bar. Located in Soho. Open mon-sat 17:30-24:00. At 249 Centre Street.
Signature pour: Domaine Yvon Metras Fleurie
Wine focus: Natural French wines, biodynamic
Food: Charcuterie and tartines
Tip: Bookings via Resy three weeks out for tables. The bar counter takes walk-ins from 17:30; the seats fill by 18:30.
June on Court Street has poured natural wine in Cobble Hill, New York City since 2017. Forty bottles by the glass, snack-and-small-plate menu.
Signature pour: Lucy Margaux Sauvignon Blanc
Wine focus: Natural wines, Australian and French focus
Food: Snacks and small plates
Tip: Industry night is Monday; the room fills with line cooks comparing notes. Tuesday is the calm seat.
Ops on Himrod Street pairs naturally leavened wood-fired pizza with Italian natural wines in Bushwick Brooklyn, New York City. Open tue-sun 17:30-23:00.
Signature pour: COS Pithos rosso by the glass
Wine focus: Italian natural wines
Food: Naturally leavened pizza
Tip: Six tables and a counter; reservations open three weeks ahead. The marinara pie with the COS Pithos is the order.