Montreal Jewish deli$$boerum-hill
Mile End in Boerum Hill has served Montreal-style smoked meat and Canadian-Jewish comfort cooking in Brooklyn, New York City since 2010. Cured brisket sandwich.
Signature: Montreal smoked meat sandwich, Poutine, Latkes
Order: Smoked meat on rye, hand-sliced, with mustard and a side of poutine.
Tip: The breakfast menu runs all day; weekday mornings are the calmest seats in the small room.
Cantonese dim sum$$east-village
Tim Ho Wan on Fourth Avenue runs the New York City branch of the Hong Kong dim sum house, the cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant in the world.
Signature: Baked BBQ pork buns, Steamed pork ribs, Shrimp har gow
Order: Baked BBQ pork buns, three to an order, ordered the moment you sit down.
Tip: Off-peak hours are 14:30 to 17:00 weekdays; weekend lunch hits a 45-minute wait by 12:30.
Chinese$$chinatown
Joe's Shanghai on Bowery has popularised the soup dumpling in Manhattan's Chinatown in New York City since 1997. Cash-friendly, big rooms, family-style sharing.
Signature: Soup dumplings, Drunken crab
Order: Pork-and-crab xiao long bao, eight per basket.
Tip: No reservations; expect 30 minutes at peak weekend lunch. Bring cash to speed up the tab.
Russian$$brighton-beach
Tatiana Cafe on the Brighton Beach boardwalk has run Russian-Ukrainian family meals in New York City since 1990. Borscht, pelmeni, blini, ocean-front tables.
Signature: Pelmeni, Beef stroganoff
Order: Pelmeni in butter, with sour cream on the side.
Tip: Live music on weekend evenings runs late. Order from the Russian menu if Cyrillic is doable; the kitchen makes more there.
Soul food$$harlem
Sylvia Woods's Harlem soul-food restaurant has served fried chicken, collards and yams in New York City since 1962. Sunday gospel brunch is the institutional service.
Signature: Smothered chicken, Cornbread
Order: Smothered chicken, candied yams, cornbread.
Tip: Sunday brunch books up two weeks in advance. Weeknight dinner is the easy seat for the same menu.
Soul food$$$harlem
Marcus Samuelsson's Lenox Avenue Harlem room runs an Afro-Swedish-Southern hybrid menu in New York City. Live jazz downstairs at Ginny's Supper Club after 22:00.
Signature: Yard bird fried chicken, Helga's meatballs
Order: Yard bird fried chicken with mac and greens.
Tip: Sunday brunch is the room's big draw; bookings essential. Bar walk-ins for a quick supper around 18:00.