Coffee in Edinburgh runs deep, from the early speciality roasters to the cafes that have grown into neighbourhood institutions. The New Town carries much of the trade through Cairngorm Coffee and Cafen, while Brew Lab and Union of Genius hold the Old Town. Leith has its own cluster around the Leith Walk Police Box and Williams and Johnson Coffee Co, and Artisan Roast on Broughton Street remains a Canonmills fixture.
££££CafeLeith
Leith Walk's converted police-box coffee counter in Edinburgh, opened 2016 inside a 1950s Glasgow-style box, serving filter coffee and seasonal pastries.
OrderA flat white and the cardamom-and-pistachio cake.
TipThere is no seating; coffee in hand on Leith Walk's central reservation is the local move. Cash only most days.
££££CaféCanonmills Inverleith
Artisan Roast on Broughton Street in Edinburgh, opened 2007, the city's third-wave coffee pioneer roasting on-site in Glasgow and pouring filter and espresso.
TipOpen from 08:00 weekends and busy by 10:00; the back room takes laptop users for longer sessions and stays open till 18:00.
££££CaféNew Town
Cafen on Dundas Street in Edinburgh New Town, a flagship speciality brew bar a few minutes walk from Waverley Station that rotates a short bean list.
TipOpen from 8am every day; the cushioned window seats fill first for morning filter pours, the rotating menu changes when a new lot lands from the roastery.
££££CaféOld Town
Brew Lab on South College Street in Edinburgh, opened 2012, a third-wave coffee bar pouring filter and espresso into a long basement room near the University.
TipTheir training arm runs Saturday public cuppings at 11:00; sign up online for a week or two ahead.
££££CaféMarchmont Meadows
Machina's Marchmont cafe in Edinburgh's south side, a bright sit-in space pouring single-origin espresso and filter from their own roastery.
TipMornings until 11:00 are quietest; rotating lunch pop-ups land midday.
££££CaféNew Town
Cairngorm Coffee on Melville Place in Edinburgh New Town, opened 2014, a basement third-wave coffee bar pouring rotating UK and European roasters.
TipTheir Frederick Street branch is brighter and busier; the Melville Place original is the quiet workspace.
££££CaféLeith
Williams and Johnson roastery cafe on Customs Wharf in Leith Edinburgh, opened 2017 by two former Square Mile baristas, an in-house roaster and cafe.
TipTour the roaster on the public Saturday morning slot; check the website calendar two weeks ahead.
££££CaféLeith
Twelve Triangles bakery-cafe on Brunswick Street in Edinburgh, opened 2015, a third-wave coffee counter making the city's most popular doughnuts.
TipOpen from 07:00; the day's doughnuts sell out by 11:00 on Saturdays. The Brunswick Street site is takeaway only.
££££CaféTollcross West End
Lovecrumbs cake shop on West Port in Edinburgh, opened 2010, a tea-and-cake counter in a Grassmarket-adjacent townhouse with a sun-filled bay window.
TipTheir daily-changing cake counter is a one-glass-each affair; the upstairs nook seats four for quiet sessions.
££££CaféLeith
The Company Bakery on Easter Road in Edinburgh, opened 2018, a coffee bar and sourdough bakery serving filter coffee, fresh pastries and a small lunchtime.
TipThe cinnamon morning bun sells out before 11:00. Order ahead via their website for collection most days.
££££CaféNew Town
Urban Angel on Hanover Street in Edinburgh New Town, opened 2003, a basement organic-leaning all-day cafe serving breakfast, brunch and light lunches.
TipThe kitchen closes at 15:00 on weekdays and 16:00 at weekends, so treat it as a breakfast and lunch stop rather than an afternoon one.
££££CaféOld Town
Edinburgh Larder cafe on Blackfriars Street in the Old Town of Edinburgh, opened 2009, a Scottish-provenance all-day cafe serving breakfast.
TipCloses 16:00 most days. The cafe on Blackfriars Street is calmer than the larger bistro round the corner.
££££CaféCanonmills Inverleith
Valvona and Crolla caffe on Elm Row in Edinburgh, opened in the 1990s at the back of the city's longest-running Italian deli, pouring espresso and serving.
TipStand at the bar for the proper Italian experience. The deli at the front is open till 17:30; shop on your way out.
££££CaféLeith
Leith Walk Police Box on Pilrig Street in Edinburgh, opened 2016 inside a 1950s blue police box, a 3-square-metre coffee counter pouring filter and espresso.
TipThere is no seating; coffee in hand on the Leith Walk central reservation. Cash only on most days.
££££CafeNew Town
Dishoom on St Andrew Square in Edinburgh New Town, open until midnight on Friday and Saturday nights, serving the slow-cooked Irani cafe menu into the small.
OrderRaan and midnight naan
TipThe full menu is available until closing. Book the late slot on weekends if you are coming from a theatre or concert.
££££CafeOld Town
Union of Genius on Forrest Road in Edinburgh Old Town, Scotland's first dedicated soup cafe serving six freshly made soups daily with flavour-matched artisan.
OrderAsk the staff what they made today and take the one they recommend. They are right every time.
TipCloses at 16:00 weekdays and 15:00 Saturday. No Sunday service. Arrive at 12:00 for first pick.
££££CafeOld Town
Union of Genius on Forrest Road in Edinburgh Old Town, Scotland's first dedicated soup cafe serving six freshly made soups daily with flavour-matched artisan.
OrderBowl of soup with artisan bread
TipSix soups rotate daily; the chilli is always on. Closes at 16:00 on weekdays and 15:00 Saturday, no Sunday service.