Edinburgh's seafood comes straight off the east-coast boats, from oyster bars to fish counters and chip shops. The Old Town has the White Horse Oyster and Seafood Bar, while Fishers in the City works the New Town and The Fishmarket sits right on the harbour at Newhaven. Dulse and LeftField carry the more refined end of the category in Tollcross and the West End.
££££SeafoodOld Town
White Horse Oyster and Seafood Bar at 266 Canongate on the Royal Mile in Edinburgh Old Town, opened in November 2017 inside what is reckoned the oldest inn.
OrderA half-dozen native oysters off the chalk board, then the lobster linguine for the table.
TipThe narrow room books out for dinner; lunch from noon and the late-night kitchen until midnight take walk-ins at the counter.
££££SeafoodNew Town
The New Town offshoot of the Leith Fishers seafood mini-chain in Edinburgh, on Thistle Street since 2001, a brasserie-style room running East Coast fish.
OrderCullen skink for starters and the whole grilled lemon sole with brown butter.
TipThe original Fishers Bistro on the Shore in Leith is the smaller, more ambient sibling if you want the Old Port version.
££££SeafoodNew Town
The Café Royal on West Register Street in Edinburgh New Town, a Victorian pub and oyster bar serving fresh seafood, classic dishes and continental lagers.
OrderOysters and a seafood platter to share, taken at the bar under the Victorian interiors.
TipThe 09:00 opening and the brunch menu run Thursday to Saturday only. Under 18s are not allowed in the bar, though children aged five and over are welcome in the restaurant.
££££SeafoodLeith
Fishers in Leith on The Shore in Edinburgh, open since 1991 in a seventeenth-century watchtower, a seafood kitchen running East Coast fish and shellfish.
OrderThe whole East Coast lobster with chips and salad, or the roast monkfish with peas.
TipWalk-ins are welcome. Ask for the cosy round room by the bar rather than the main restaurant, or a table outside by the water when it is dry.
££££SeafoodNewhaven
The Fishmarket on Pier Place in Newhaven Edinburgh, a collaboration between Welch Fishmongers and the Ondine team, serving oysters, langoustines and grilled.
OrderA dressed crab with brown toast and a glass of house white on the outdoor deck.
TipBook the evening deck table in summer. Buses 16 and 32 from Princes Street reach Newhaven in 20 minutes.
££££SeafoodTollcross West End
LeftField on Barclay Terrace in Edinburgh Bruntsfield, a neighbourhood seafood bistro serving seasonal small plates with minimal-intervention wines.
OrderWhatever shellfish came in from the West Coast that morning and a glass of Gros Manseng.
TipNo website booking form; call ahead on 0131 563 1792 or walk in at 12:30 for a lunch table.
££££SeafoodTollcross West End
Dulse seafood restaurant on Queensferry Street in Edinburgh West End, from the Dean Banks Group, a two-rosette seafood and oyster bar open Wednesday.
OrderHalf a dozen Scottish oysters with the house mignonette, and the monkfish with Highland butter sauce.
TipThe oyster bar counter at the front takes walk-ins without a booking. The full menu requires a reservation.
££££SeafoodNew Town
L'Alba D'Oro on Henderson Row in Edinburgh New Town, an evening-only takeaway chippy opened in 1975 and named UK's best by The Times in 2014.
OrderBattered haddock and chips. No gimmicks, no sides. That is the dish.
TipEvening only from 16:00. Take your chips to the Stockbridge Water of Leith path five minutes away.
££££SeafoodNew Town
L'Alba D'Oro on Henderson Row in Edinburgh New Town, opened 1975 and named UK's best fish and chip shop by The Times, a takeaway chippy chipping its own.
OrderBattered haddock and chips
TipEvening-only: opens at 16:00. Arrive at opening to avoid the post-work queue that builds from 17:30.
££££SeafoodOld Town
Bertie's Proper Fish and Chips on Victoria Street in Edinburgh Old Town, a sit-down and takeaway chippy cooking fresh Scottish haddock battered to order.
OrderBattered haddock and chips
TipTakeaway counter at the front is faster than the sit-down section. Order at the counter and eat on the Grassmarket steps.