Street food££granton-leithThu-Sat 09:00-21:00, Sun 09:00-20:00
The Pitt street-food market on West Shore Road in Edinburgh, open Thursday to Sunday, an award-winning indoor market with rotating food trucks and craft bars.
Order: The food truck list rotates weekly; check the website the day before and plan your order.
Why locals love it: West Shore Road in Granton is a bus ride from the city centre that most visitors never take. The Pitt is Edinburgh's largest street food market: a purpose-built indoor venue.
Tip: Free entry. The sauna books up separately. Best visit is a Thursday or Friday evening before the weekend crowds.
Seafood££new-townMon-Thu 17:00-21:15, Fri-Sun 16:00-21:15
L'Alba D'Oro on Henderson Row in Edinburgh New Town, an evening-only takeaway chippy opened in 1975 and named UK's best by The Times in 2014.
Order: Battered haddock and chips. No gimmicks, no sides. That is the dish.
Why locals love it: Henderson Row is not a tourist strip. The chippy opens at 16:00, serves until 21:15 and has no indoor seating. Named UK's best chip shop by The Times in 2014.
Tip: Evening only from 16:00. Take your chips to the Stockbridge Water of Leith path five minutes away.
Modern European££tollcross-west-endWed 08:30-16:00, Thu-Fri 08:30-22:00, Sat 09:00-22:00, Sun 09:00-16:00
Margot wine cafe on Barclay Terrace in Edinburgh Bruntsfield, a neighbourhood wine and small-plates room from the LeftField team, serving seasonal European.
Order: The weekly-changing small plates with a glass of whatever the owner recommends from the bottle list.
Why locals love it: Bruntsfield is where Edinburgh locals eat. Margot is the wine cafe on the corner of Barclay Terrace with a daily-changing small plates menu, a natural wine list and no social.
Tip: Walk-in only for brunch; evenings require a booking. The Thursday slot is the least contested.
Seafood££newhavenDaily 11:00-22:00
The Fishmarket on Pier Place in Newhaven Edinburgh, a collaboration between Welch Fishmongers and the Ondine team, serving oysters, langoustines and grilled.
Order: A dressed crab with brown toast and a glass of house white on the outdoor deck.
Why locals love it: Newhaven Pier is a 20-minute bus from the Royal Mile and feels like a different Edinburgh: working harbour, outdoor tables, Ondine-team seafood at takeaway prices. Most.
Tip: Book the evening deck table in summer. Buses 16 and 32 from Princes Street reach Newhaven in 20 minutes.
Seafood££tollcross-west-endThu 17:30-20:45, Fri-Sun 12:00-13:30 17:30-20:45
LeftField on Barclay Terrace in Edinburgh Bruntsfield, a neighbourhood seafood bistro serving seasonal small plates with minimal-intervention wines.
Order: Whatever shellfish came in from the West Coast that morning and a glass of Gros Manseng.
Why locals love it: Bruntsfield is a 25-minute walk from the Old Town and most visitors never go. LeftField is Phil White and Rachel Chisholm's seafood bistro with a natural wine list and no PR.
Tip: No website booking form; call ahead on 0131 563 1792 or walk in at 12:30 for a lunch table.
Seafood££tollcross-west-endMon-Tue 17:00-22:00, Wed-Sun 12:00-22:00
Dulse seafood restaurant on Queensferry Street in Edinburgh West End, from the Dean Banks Group, a two-rosette seafood and oyster bar open Wednesday.
Order: Half a dozen Scottish oysters with the house mignonette, and the monkfish with Highland butter sauce.
Why locals love it: The Dean Banks Group is better known for Haar in St Andrews. Dulse slipped into Edinburgh's West End in 2023 without much fanfare despite holding two AA rosettes.
Tip: The oyster bar counter at the front takes walk-ins without a booking. The full menu requires a reservation.
