Coconut-milk curry built on a pounded paste of green bird's-eye chillies, lemongrass, galangal, shrimp paste and kaffir lime. Cooked with chicken or fish balls, Thai aubergines and bamboo; sweet, herbaceous, aromatic.

Gaeng keow wan (sweet green curry) emerged in the central-plains Thai kitchens of the Rama VI era (1910s) and consolidated as the canonical green curry through Bangkok royal-cuisine restaurants by the 1950s. The green colour comes from the chillies, the sweet from coconut and palm sugar; pre-modern versions used wild boar. Krua Apsorn and Paste Bangkok run defensible versions; Saneh Jaan is the canonical fine-dining take.

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