Som tam is the Isan-Lao pounded papaya salad: shredded green papaya, palm sugar, lime, fish sauce and bird's-eye chilli bashed in a clay mortar to bruise the fruit into the dressing.
Som tam migrated to Bangkok with Isan northeastern Thai labour migration in the mid-20th century and became the canonical Bangkok lunch dish by the 1980s. Som Tam Jay So in Sathorn was Michelin-listed with a Bib Gourmand in 2018, pounding to order in clay mortars from a sai-mok northeastern recipe lineage. Variants now include som tam Thai (Bangkok sweeter style), som tam pu pla ra (with fermented crab and fish sauce), and som tam Lao (with raw aubergine, less sugar, more pungent).
Polo Fried Chicken in Bangkok's Soi Polo is the Bib Gourmand garlic-fried-chicken room, a 1989 family business deep-frying half birds blanketed in crispy.
OrderHalf a fried chicken with the garlic blanket, som tam Thai and a basket of sticky rice.
TipCash only. Lunch crowds fill the room by 12:00; arrive before opening or after 14:00. Open 07:00-21:00 daily.
Or Tor Kor in Bangkok's Chatuchak is the cleanest food court in the city with curry plates and som tam stalls under 200 baht, the Bib Gourmand som tam pla ra.
OrderSom tam, grilled chicken, curry plates
TipThe som tam pla ra stall in the back corner is the canonical order; the durian and mangosteen vendors are seasonal.
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