History

Gaeng keow wan (sweet green curry) emerged in the central-plains Thai kitchens of the Rama VI era (1910s) and consolidated as the canonical green curry through Bangkok royal-cuisine restaurants by the 1950s. The green colour comes from the chillies, the sweet from coconut and palm sugar; pre-modern versions used wild boar. Krua Apsorn and Paste Bangkok run defensible versions; Saneh Jaan is the canonical fine-dining take.

Common allergens: Shellfish (shrimp paste), Coconut, Fish sauce

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 25 minTotal 40 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 600g chicken thigh, skinless, cut into 3cm pieces
  • 400ml coconut milk (full fat)
  • 100ml coconut cream (the thick top)
  • 5 tbsp Thai green curry paste (Mae Ploy or homemade)
  • 200g Thai pea aubergines
  • 200g small Thai green aubergines, quartered
  • 100g bamboo shoot strips, drained
  • 6 makrut (kaffir) lime leaves, torn
  • 3 large red Thai long chillies, sliced on the diagonal
  • 3 tbsp fish sauce
  • 2 tbsp palm sugar
  • 1 large bunch Thai sweet basil (horapa) leaves only
  • Steamed jasmine rice, to serve

Method

  1. Heat a wok or wide pan over medium-high heat. Spoon in the thick coconut cream and cook 3 to 4 minutes, stirring, until the oil splits and the cream darkens. This step is non-negotiable.
  2. Add the green curry paste to the split cream. Fry for 2 minutes, stirring constantly, until deeply fragrant.
  3. Add the chicken pieces and stir for 2 minutes to coat in the paste.
  4. Pour in the coconut milk and bring to a simmer. Cook 8 minutes until the chicken is just cooked.
  5. Add the pea aubergines, green aubergines and bamboo shoots. Simmer 6 to 8 minutes until the aubergines are tender but still hold shape.
  6. Add the kaffir lime leaves, red chillies, fish sauce and palm sugar. Stir gently and taste. Adjust salt and sweetness; the curry should be sweet, salty, fragrant and gently hot.
  7. Off the heat, fold in the basil leaves; they wilt in 10 seconds.
  8. Serve in deep bowls with steamed jasmine rice on the side.

Tip from the editors. Splitting the coconut cream first is what makes the curry fragrant; skipping it gives a flat, milky bowl. Look for tiny droplets of green oil on top.

Where to eat gaeng keow wan (thai green curry)

Gaeng Keow Wan (Thai Green Curry) in Bangkok

Krua Apsorn Dinso ★ 4.6

Thai฿฿

Krua Apsorn Dinso is royal-influenced thai room from 2003 in the old town with bib gourmand stir-fries, the local lunch room missed by tour groups.

Why locals love it: Royal-influenced Thai room from 2003 in the Old Town with Bib Gourmand stir-fries, the local lunch room missed by tour groups.

Tip: Closed Sundays. The Dinso original is better than the newer branches. Lunch through 19:30 only, last seating 19:00.

169 Dinso Road, Wat Bowon Niwet, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok 10200

Paste Bangkok ★ 4.6

Royal Thai฿฿฿฿siam

Paste in Bangkok's Gaysorn Village is Bongkoch 'Bee' Satongun's royal-Thai room, one Michelin star and a Veuve Clicquot Asia's Best Female Chef alumna.

Signature: Royal-court curry pastes, Heritage Thai tasting menu, Mango sticky rice

Order: The set tasting menu of royal-court dishes; ask about hidden vegetarian options not on the printed menu.

Tip: Reservations on Chope at Gaysorn Village 3F; smart casual dress code, mall entry is on Ploenchit Road.

Gaysorn Village 3rd Floor, 999 Ploenchit Road, Lumpini, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330

Saawaan ★ 4.3

Tasting menuChef Sujira 'Aom' Pongmorn฿฿฿฿฿4,200Book 3 weeks ahead

Saawaan in Bangkok's Sathorn is Chef Aom Pongmorn's nine-course modern Thai tasting menu room, a former Michelin-starred fine-diner (one star 2019 to 2025).

Tip: Closed Mondays. The room seats around 30 across an open-kitchen counter; book three weeks out via Chope.

39/19 Soi Suan Phlu, Thung Maha Mek, Sathon, Bangkok 10120

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