Modern Indian sustainable$$$$asoke-phrom-phong
Haoma in Bangkok's Sukhumvit 31 is Chef Deepanker 'DK' Khosla's zero-waste modern-Indian room with an urban garden, one Michelin star and a Green Star for sustainability.
Signature: Garden-to-table tasting, Aged tandoor courses, Fermented dosa
Order: The garden-to-table tasting menu; the tandoor course and the fermented dosa are the canonical sections.
Tip: Closed Mondays. Garden tables seat six to eight and need 30 days' notice; counter tables go quicker.
Royal-influenced Thai$$$silom-sathorn
Issaya Siamese Club in Bangkok's Sathorn is Chef Ian Kittichai's heritage Thai room in a 1920s villa, the room that put modern Thai on Asia's 50 Best from the early 2010s.
Signature: Massaman lamb shank, Pomelo salad with prawn, Banoffee dessert in a jar
Order: The massaman lamb shank, the pomelo salad and the banoffee dessert in the jar.
Tip: Garden tables for evenings, indoor villa room for monsoon season. Sunday brunch is the best value introduction.
Thai street wok$$$old-town
Raan Jay Fai in Bangkok's Old Town is the Michelin-starred street stall where Supinya Junsuta wears ski goggles to wok the city's most famous crab omelet, since 2018.
Signature: Crab omelet, Drunken noodles, Tom yum soup
Order: The crab omelet (kai jeaw poo) and the drunken noodles (pad kee mao) with seafood.
Tip: Open Wednesday to Saturday 09:00 to 19:00. Walk-in only with same-day queue numbers; closed Sundays, Mondays and Tuesdays. Cash only; prices run 800 to 1,200 baht per dish.
Roman Italian$$$asoke-phrom-phong
Appia in Bangkok's Sukhumvit 31 is Paolo Vitaletti and Jarrett Wrisley's Roman trattoria with house porchetta, cacio e pepe and a small-cellar Italian list. Bib Gourmand.
Signature: Porchetta, Cacio e pepe, House-made pasta
Order: The Sunday porchetta and a plate of cacio e pepe with the house-made tonnarelli.
Tip: Sundays are porchetta-only feast service, book three weeks ahead. Weekday lunch is the under-the-radar value.
Royal central Thai$$$silom-sathorn
Saneh Jaan in Bangkok's Sindhorn building runs royal-influenced central Thai cuisine at lunch and dinner, one Michelin star and a smart-casual room with Sukhothai accents.
Signature: Massaman beef cheek, Crab fried rice, Tom kha gai
Order: The massaman beef cheek and the crab fried rice from the a-la-carte menu.
Tip: Lunch is the budget play with set menus from 850 baht. Reservations on own site; smart casual dress code.
Southern Thai$$thonglor-ekkamai
Khua Kling Pak Sod in Bangkok's Thonglor is the canonical southern-Thai family room, dry-spiced beef khua kling, sator stir-fry and crab curry served with mountain rice.
Signature: Khua kling beef, Crab curry, Sator pork stir-fry
Order: The khua kling beef on rice, the sator and pork stir-fry, plus a coconut sticky-rice dessert.
Tip: Heat scale is real; ask the server for the western-tongue version if you cannot handle the dry spice.