The flamenco-and-ceramics quarter across the Guadalquivir, birthplace of Sevillian Roma music, home to Mercado de Triana and the Calle Betis river-terrace cervecerias.
Bar Casa Ruperto on Avenida Santa Cecilia in Seville's Triana is the city's canonical fried-quail counter since 1970, with the marinated codornices fried.
Signature: Codorniz frita, Espinacas con garbanzos, Carrillada iberica
Order: Two pairs of codorniz frita and a half-racion of espinacas con garbanzos.
Tip: Open Tue-Sun 11:30-16:00 and 19:30-24:00, closed Monday. The standing bar is the local way; the back room takes small groups.
Vega 10 on Calle Rosario Vega in Seville's Triana, opened in 2014, marries Andalusian tradition with Asian and South American influences, with bull's tail.
Signature: Canelones de rabo de toro, Tartar de atun, Tapa de cochinillo
Order: The canelones de rabo de toro and the tuna tartare from the open kitchen.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 13:00-16:00 and 20:30-23:45, closed Sunday. The terrace between Triana and Los Remedios fills from 21:30; book by phone a week ahead.
Las Golondrinas on Calle Antillano Campos in Seville's Triana is the tile-walled tapas counter since 1962, with the punta de solomillo on toast and grilled.
Signature: Punta de solomillo, Champinones al ajillo, Lomo a la pimienta
Order: The punta de solomillo on toast and the champinones al ajillo.
Tip: Open daily 12:00-16:00 and 20:00-24:00. Standing-room only and tiny; arrive before 13:30 or after 22:30.
Bar Santa Ana on Calle Pureza in Seville's Triana is the bullfighter-themed taberna opposite the Santa Ana church since 1912, with the canonical tortilla.
Signature: Tortilla espanola, Carrillada, Salmorejo
Order: The tortilla espanola and a racion of carrillada en salsa, with a copa of fino.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00 and 19:30-24:00, closed Sunday. The bullfighter-photograph walls fill from 14:00 with regulars.
Casa Cuesta on Calle Castilla in Seville's Triana has cooked menudo (offal stew) since 1880, a tile-and-bullfighting-poster taberna at the foot of the Triana.
Signature: Menudo, Pavias de bacalao, Carrillada
Order: The menudo (the city's canonical tripe-and-chickpea stew) and pavias de bacalao with manzanilla.
Tip: Open daily 12:00-16:30 and 19:30-24:00. Lunch on Sunday from 14:00 is the local main event; book the back room a week ahead.
Bar Santa Ana on Calle Pureza in Seville's Triana is the bullfighter-themed taberna opposite the Santa Ana church since 1912, with the canonical tortilla.
Signature: Tortilla espanola, Carrillada, Salmorejo
Order: Tortilla espanola and a racion of carrillada en salsa with fino.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00 and 19:30-24:00, closed Sunday. The bullfighter-photograph walls fill from 14:00 with regulars.
Las Golondrinas on Calle Antillano Campos in Seville's Triana is the tile-walled tapas counter since 1962, serving the punta de solomillo on toast.
Signature: Punta de solomillo, Champinones al ajillo, Lomo a la pimienta
Order: Punta de solomillo on toast and champinones al ajillo.
Tip: Open daily 12:00-16:00 and 20:00-24:00. Standing-room only and tiny; arrive before 13:30 or after 22:30.
Bar Casa Ruperto on Avenida Santa Cecilia in Seville's Triana is the city's canonical fried-quail counter since 1970, with marinated codornices fried.
Signature: Codorniz frita, Espinacas con garbanzos, Carrillada iberica
Order: Two pairs of codorniz frita and a half-racion of espinacas con garbanzos.
Tip: Open Tue-Sun 11:30-16:00 and 19:30-24:00, closed Monday. The standing bar is the local way.
Sala X on Calle Betis in Seville's Triana is the river-side dance club along the Triana row, programming pop, dance and Latin with a younger student-leaning.
Tip: Doors at 00:00 Thu-Sat. The riverside Triana terrace runs in shoulder season; ID required.
T de Triana on Calle Betis in Seville's Triana is the riverfront tavern hosting the Flamenco Esencia troupe under Maria La Serrana, with a 34-seat.
Tip: Arrive 30 minutes before showtime for a seat. The riverfront strip is 10 minutes' walk from Puente de Triana.
Lo Nuestro on Calle Betis in Seville's Triana is the live-flamenco-and-sevillanas bar along the river-side, a less formal Triana flamenco room than Casa.
Tip: Free entry; arrive by 23:30 for a seat at the bar. Closed Mon-Wed.
Mariatrifulca on Plaza del Altozano in Seville's Triana runs a rooftop overlooking the Guadalquivir and the Triana bridge, with a selected cocktail list.
Tip: Book the rooftop a week ahead in spring and summer; cocktails run 12 to 16 euros.