centroDaily 11:00-23:00
Bar La Ideal off Plaza Mayor in Madrid is the bocadillo de calamares counter where battered squid rings on a fresh roll define the Madrileno working-day lunch since the 1950s.
Try: Bocadillo de calamares
Tip: Walk-in only at the counter. Bocadillo (5.50 euros) with a slice of lemon and a cana. Cash preferred at the bar.
centro24 hours daily
Chocolateria San Gines off Calle Mayor in Madrid has fried the churros con chocolate for the after-midnight crowd since 1894. The 24-hour counter still pulls a queue at 03:00 from the late-night Madrid scene.
Try: Churros con chocolate
Tip: Walk-in only. Set of 6 churros and a thick chocolate cup (4.30 euros). The 03:00 to 05:00 slot is the post-club rush.
centroDaily 10:00-24:00
Mercado de San Miguel in Madrid serves the gilda tapa (anchovy, olive and guindilla pepper on a stick) at 12 different counters, the Basque-origin pintxo adopted into the Madrileno tapas canon.
Try: Gilda tapas
Tip: Gilda tapas run 2 to 3 euros each at every counter; pair with a glass of Txakoli from Casa Real Andaluza.
centroDaily 11:00-15:30 and 18:00-23:00
Casa Labra near Puerta del Sol in Madrid has fried the bacalao rebozado (salt cod in light batter) at its counter since 1860. The pincho de bacalao remains under 2 euros and the standing-room bar fills at 13:00.
Try: Bacalao rebozado
Tip: Walk-in only at the counter. Pincho de bacalao (1.30 euros) and a cana. Cash strongly preferred.
centroTue-Sun 11:00-16:00 and 19:30-23:00
Casa Revuelta off Plaza Mayor in Madrid has fried the bacalao rebozado in iron pans since 1924. The bar pours cana and standing-room patrons order the cod by the piece at 5 euros.
Try: Bacalao rebozado
Tip: Walk-in only at the counter. Closed Mondays. Cash preferred. The cana doble runs 3 euros next to the cod.
malasanaMon-Sat 13:00-15:30 and 20:30-23:30Cash only
Casa Julio in Madrid's Malasana has fried the city's most-talked-about croquetas since 1921, with rotating fillings (jamon, boletus, espinacas con queso) and a counter that queues onto Calle de la Madera.
Try: Croquetas de jamon
Tip: Cash only. Walk-in only; arrive before 13:00 or after 16:00 to skip the queue. Docena of croquetas runs 13 euros.
lavapiesTue-Sun 12:00-16:00
Casa Amadeo Los Caracoles on Plaza Cascorro in Madrid's Lavapies has cooked the caracoles (snails in spicy chorizo broth) for the Sunday rastro crowd since 1942. The recipe still uses 12 spices.
Try: Caracoles a la madrilena
Tip: Walk-in only. Closed Mondays. Cash preferred. Racion of caracoles (12 euros) with bread; Sunday rastro hours are busiest.
centroDaily 11:30-16:00 and 19:30-24:00Cash only
Casa Toni near Sol in Madrid is the offal-counter taberna for oreja a la plancha (grilled pig's ear, crispy and tender), with the offal canon (callos, mollejas, zarajos) served from the formica bar since the 1960s.
Try: Oreja a la plancha
Tip: Cash only. Walk-in only at the standing-room bar. The oreja a la plancha (6 euros) is the headline; vermut beforehand.
lavapiesTue-Sun 11:00-16:00 and 19:00-23:00
El Rey de Gallinejas in Madrid's Embajadores quarter is the working-quarter taberna for gallinejas (fried lamb intestine) and entresijos (fried lamb-belly fat), the offal canon that defined the Madrileno cheap eat since 1947.
Try: Gallinejas and entresijos
Tip: Walk-in only. Cash preferred. Closed Mondays. Racion of gallinejas runs 8 euros; entresijos 6 euros.
centroTue-Sun 12:00-24:00
Rosales on Calle Echegaray in Madrid is the standing-room tapas counter where the Basque-origin gilda (anchovy, olive, guindilla on a stick) anchors the Spanish-Northern tapas canon adopted by Madrid taberneros.
Try: Gilda tapas
Tip: Walk-in. Gilda tapas run 2 euros each; pair with vermut. The bar fills up at 20:30 weekend evenings.
chamberiDaily 09:00-19:00
Panaderia Mision in Madrid's Conde Duque sells sourdough sandwiches at the counter, with daily fillings of jamon iberico, tortilla and salmorejo, plus the city's reference sourdough loaves to take away.
Try: Sourdough sandwich
Tip: Walk-in only at the counter. Sourdough sandwich runs 6 to 8 euros. The loaves sell out by 14:00; buy early.
centroDaily 11:00-23:00Cash only
Casa Puerto Rico off Plaza Mayor in Madrid is the bocadillo de calamares counter, with squid rings fried to order in the small kitchen behind the standing-room bar, beside fresh-pressed lemon slices.
Try: Bocadillo de calamares
Tip: Cash preferred. Walk-in only. Bocadillo runs 5 euros, cana 2.50 at the standing-room counter.
centroMon-Sat 10:00-14:00 and 17:00-20:30
Casa Mira on Carrera de San Jeronimo has produced turron (soft-and-hard almond-and-honey brick) since 1855, with the marble counter and the original 19th-century moulds for Christmas-season production.
Try: Turron de Jijona
Tip: Cash preferred. Closed Sundays. Turron runs 15 to 28 euros per kilo; smaller portions sold by weight.