Casual Dining in Retiro (retiro)

La Castela ★ 4.3

Madrileno taberna€€retiro

La Castela near El Retiro in Madrid is the family-run taberna behind a zinc bar, with croquetas de bacalao, pisto manchego and the daily-changing pizarra of seasonal plates since 1981.

Signature: Croquetas de bacalao, Pisto manchego, Tartar de atun

Order: The croquetas de bacalao, the pisto manchego with fried egg, and a tartar de atun. Cana de Mahou.

Tip: Book two days ahead for weekday lunch. The bar serves the same pizarra menu standing for half the dining room price.

Bodegas Rosell ★ 4.4

Vermut, tapas€€retiro

Bodegas Rosell near Atocha in Madrid has poured the vermut de grifo from oak barrels since 1920, with a marble counter, formica tables and bocadillos, boquerones and croquetas for the working-day lunch.

Signature: Vermut de grifo, Boquerones, Bocadillo de calamares

Order: A vermut de grifo (2.50 euros) and a bocadillo de calamares. A pincho de tortilla on the side.

Tip: Walk-in only; the counter fills up at 13:00. Cash strongly preferred at the bar. The terrace is on weekends only.

Budget Eats in Retiro (retiro)

La Castela (menu del dia) ★ 4.3

retiro

La Castela near El Retiro in Madrid runs the working-day menu del dia at 18 euros: three courses with bread, water and a glass of wine, with the daily-changing pizarra carte for the regulars.

Try: Menu del dia weekday lunch

Tip: Book two days ahead for weekday lunch. The bar serves the same pizarra menu standing for half the dining room price.

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