The park-side residential quarter around El Retiro and Calle Ibiza, with the Salamanca-adjacent classic kitchens and the Mercado Ibiza neighbourhood feel.
La Castela near El Retiro in Madrid is the family-run taberna behind a zinc bar, with croquetas de bacalao, pisto manchego and the daily-changing pizarra.
Signature: Croquetas de bacalao, Pisto manchego, Tartar de atun
Order: The croquetas de bacalao, the pisto manchego with fried egg, and a tartar de atun. Cana de Mahou.
Tip: Book two days ahead for weekday lunch. The bar serves the same pizarra menu standing for half the dining room price.
Bodegas Rosell near Atocha in Madrid has poured the vermut de grifo from oak barrels since 1920, with a marble counter, formica tables and bocadillos.
Signature: Vermut de grifo, Boquerones, Bocadillo de calamares
Order: A vermut de grifo (2.50 euros) and a bocadillo de calamares. A pincho de tortilla on the side.
Tip: Walk-in only; the counter fills up at 13:00. Cash strongly preferred at the bar. The terrace is on weekends only.
Vinoteca Garcia de la Navarra in Madrid's Retiro near Cibeles is the by-the-glass wine bar since 2011 by the Garcia de la Navarra brothers, with 700 cellar.
Signature pour: Vega Sicilia Unico, by the glass
Wine focus: Spanish and international, 700 references
Food: Tasting room plates, seasonal carte
Tip: Closed Sundays. The by-the-glass list at the bar rotates weekly; the dining room takes reservations five days out.
Gourmet Madrid runs hands-on Spanish cooking classes near Retiro park since 2011: three-hour sessions cover four traditional dishes plus sangria.
Tip: Classes arranged any day on request via info@gourmetmadrid.com. The market-visit add-on extends the day to a half-day; book a week ahead for weekend slots.
La Castela near El Retiro in Madrid runs the working-day menu del dia at 18 euros: three courses with bread, water and a glass of wine. Booking recommended.
Try: Menu del dia weekday lunch
Tip: Book two days ahead for weekday lunch. The bar serves the same pizarra menu standing for half the dining room price.