La Castela ★ 4.3
La Castela near El Retiro in Madrid is the family-run taberna behind a zinc bar, with croquetas de bacalao, pisto manchego and the daily-changing pizarra of seasonal plates since 1981.
Signature: Croquetas de bacalao, Pisto manchego, Tartar de atun
Order: The croquetas de bacalao, the pisto manchego with fried egg, and a tartar de atun. Cana de Mahou.
Tip: Book two days ahead for weekday lunch. The bar serves the same pizarra menu standing for half the dining room price.