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Wine barRibera
The silversmiths' guild taberna on Calle San Francisco in Córdoba pours its own Montilla-Moriles labels around a patio set under a glass roof.
OrderA copa of Oro Viejo, the guild's own bottling.
PourOro Viejo, one of the house labels
WineThe guild's own Montilla-Moriles labels
FoodCordobés tapas with a documented coeliac protocol
TipTell the staff if you are coeliac; they swap every round plate on the table for a square one.
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Wine barCentro
Taberna La Fuenseca pours fino en rama over a wooden bar on Calle Juan Rufo in Córdoba, one of the houses on the city's historic-taberna register.
OrderFino en rama, which is the whole reason the bar has a following.
PourFino en rama, unfiltered and poured cold
WineFino en rama and the rest of the Montilla-Moriles range
FoodCordobés tapas
TipService stops at 23:00 and the place shuts Mondays, so plan it as an early-evening stop.
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Wine barSanta Marina
Taberna Regina holds a corner of Plaza de Regina in Córdoba, a registered historic taberna pouring Montilla-Moriles generosos to a mostly local room.
OrderAn amontillado with a plate of whatever the bar is frying.
PourAn amontillado from the house range
WineMontilla-Moriles generosos by the copa
FoodCordobés tapas
TipThe copa hour is midday Wednesday to Sunday, with an evening pour on Friday and Saturday only.
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Wine barJuderia
Bodega Guzmán pours Montilla-Moriles straight from the barrel on Calle Judíos in Córdoba, under a wall of bullfighting posters and mounted heads.
OrderA copa of the amontillado, chalked up on the barrel head.
PourFino, amontillado, oloroso and Pedro Ximénez, all D.O. Montilla-Moriles
WineMontilla-Moriles generosos poured from the barrel
FoodCounter tapas
TipIt closes on Thursdays, which is the one day of the week visitors reliably turn up and find it shut.
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Wine barJuderia
Vinoteca Ordóñez works a terrace within sight of the Mezquita in Córdoba, running a wide Spanish list built out from Montilla-Moriles wines.
OrderA Pedro Ximénez to finish, which is what this list exists to sell you.
PourPedro Ximénez by the glass, poured dark and syrupy
WineA broad Spanish list with Montilla-Moriles at its centre
FoodCordobés tapas
TipAsk the staff to walk you up the Montilla-Moriles scale from fino to PX rather than ordering blind.
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Wine barSan Andres
JUGO Vinos Vivos is the natural-wine counter on Plaza de San Andrés in Córdoba, a shop and tasting room in a city that drinks almost entirely fortified.
OrderA glass of whatever is open, plus cheese and bread to go with it.
PourWhatever natural bottle is open on the counter that day
WineNatural and biodynamic bottles, Spanish and beyond
FoodCheese, sourdough and preserves
TipIt keeps shop hours, Monday to Friday only, so any weekend visit will find the shutters down.