Oxtail browned hard, then braised for hours with onion, carrot, tomato and a bottle of Montilla-Moriles until the meat slips off the bone. Served with the sauce reduced to a gloss and a pile of fried potatoes.

Rabo de toro is Córdoba's bullring dish, cooked from the tail of the animal after the fight and slow-braised because there is no other way to eat it. The city has kept it on tabernas cartas continuously; Bodegas Campos, open since 1908, has served it for more than a century. Andalusian versions differ mainly in the wine: Córdoba uses Montilla-Moriles, which is drier and more oxidative than the reds used further north, and gives the sauce its particular nutty edge. Today most oxtail sold in the city is beef rather than fighting bull, which is legal, normal and rarely mentioned on the menu.

4 editor picks for Rabo de toro in Córdoba, ranked by editorial score. All Córdoba signature dishes · Rabo de toro across every city.