Tomato, telera bread, garlic and olive oil pounded cold into a thick orange cream, poured into a shallow bowl and finished with chopped jamón and hard-boiled egg. Thicker than gazpacho, and never watered down.

Salmorejo is the tomato descendant of mazamorra, the Roman almond-and-bread soup that Córdoba's olive workers ate cold in the fields. Tomatoes reached Spain from the Americas but took two centuries to reach the mortar; the first written record of salmorejo is in the dictionary of the Real Academia Española in 1737. The city now has a Cofradía del Salmorejo Cordobés, a brotherhood that specifies Guadalquivir tomatoes, Montalbán garlic, Córdoba telera bread and vinegar in the canonical version. What separates it from gazpacho is the ratio: far more bread, no cucumber, no pepper, and enough olive oil emulsified in to make a cream you can stand a spoon in.

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