Busan's feather-thin dumpling soup: loose wisps of wonton skin and pork afloat in a clean anchovy and bone broth, a Nampo-dong specialty kept alive for about eighty years.

Wandang arrived through the open port as a cousin of Japanese-Chinese wantan soup and put down roots in Nampo-dong. 18beon Wandang has folded it for some eighty years, three generations pressing skins so thin they collapse into silk ribbons in the broth. The dish never spread far beyond Busan, which makes the surviving houses a pilgrimage: one soup, a handful of sides, and the same wrist work for three generations.

1 editor pick for Wandang in Busan, ranked by editorial score. All Busan signature dishes · Wandang across every city.