Gukje Market's bench-food classic: slippery glass noodles tossed warm with soy, sesame and vegetables, eaten elbow to elbow at the alley stalls.

Bibim dangmyeon is pure Gukje Market: sweet-potato glass noodles, cheap and filling, dressed at speed for postwar shoppers who ate standing up. The stalls still serve it from mounded trays, tossed to order with spinach, seaweed and a soy-sesame slick, usually alongside chungmu gimbap or a yubu pocket. It never became restaurant food, which is the charm; the recipe lives on the benches of the market's eat-street.

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