Busan's feather-thin dumpling soup: loose wisps of wonton skin and pork afloat in a clean anchovy and bone broth, a Nampo-dong specialty kept alive for about eighty years.
Where to eat it: 1 restaurant across 1 city.
Wandang arrived through the open port as a cousin of Japanese-Chinese wantan soup and put down roots in Nampo-dong. 18beon Wandang has folded it for some eighty years, three generations pressing skins so thin they collapse into silk ribbons in the broth. The dish never spread far beyond Busan, which makes the surviving houses a pilgrimage: one soup, a handful of sides, and the same wrist work for three generations.
Common allergens: Wheat (gluten), Fish
Tip from the editors. Overfilling is the classic failure; if your dumpling holds its shape like a mandu, you have made the wrong dish.
18beon Wandang has folded feather-thin dumpling soup in Nampo-dong for about eighty years, one of the last keepers of Busan's Japanese-influenced wandang.
Order: Wandang, the paper-thin dumpling soup, 10,000 won a bowl.
Why locals love it: A wandang house folding the dish for eighty-odd years hides in plain sight off BIFF Square while the crowds chase hotteok.
Tip: Add the gimyubu set if you are two; the broth is the whole argument, so drink it down.
More cities are in research. Want wandang covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.