€€€€SteakhouseLapa
Cafe de Sao Bento in Lisbon's Lapa: a 40-year-old steakhouse named after the parliament next door, garlic-mustard sirloin and dark wood booths.
OrderBife a Cafe de Sao Bento, garlic-mustard sauce, served with shoestring chips.
€€€€Modern PortugueseChiado
Pateo at Bairro do Avillez in Chiado, Lisbon: the glass-roofed centre court of Jose Avillez's complex, modern Portuguese mains served at long tables.
OrderAcorda real, bread-and-shellfish stew with prawns and lobster.
€€€€Wine barPrincipe Real
Black Sheep Lisboa on Praca das Flores: a natural-wine bar from a Brazilian wine-geek duo pouring small biodynamic and low-intervention Portuguese producers.
€€€€SeafoodIntendente
Cervejaria Ramiro in Lisbon: a 1950s seafood hall on Avenida Almirante Reis where goose barnacles, tiger prawns and clams come straight off the boat.
OrderAmeijoas a Bulhao Pato then a prego no pao to close.
€€€€Farm-to-table PortugueseBaixa
Prado in Lisbon's Baixa: Antonio Galapito cooks farm-to-table Portuguese in a converted fish factory with Roman ruins, biodynamic wine list.
OrderThe vegetable starters and whichever whole fish landed that morning.
€€€€Bistro ContemporaryChiado
Bistro 100 Maneiras on Largo da Trindade in Chiado: the casual sister of 100 Maneiras in Bairro Alto, opened by Ljubomir Stanisic with late hours and a noted.
OrderThe tartare bar selection, two cuts compared side by side.
€€€€Portuguese SeafoodSantos
La Madragoa in Lisbon's Santos: a 20-seat family-run room cooking arroz de marisco, bacalhau a lagareiro and grilled sardines with Douro wines.
OrderArroz de marisco for two, then grilled sardines.
€€€€Cocktail barChiado
Toca da Raposa in Lisbon's Chiado: Constanca Cordeiro's 30-seat fox-themed bar, Portuguese spirits and honey-olive-oil drinks from local farms.
€€€€Wine barChiado
By The Wine on Lisbon's Rua das Flores: Sogrape's tasting bar pouring its full Portuguese range glass by glass, vaulted ceiling, late hours daily.
€€€€Wine barEstrela
Pinot in Lisbon's Estrela: Stephanie Audet and Marc Davidson's natural-wine sequel to Senhor Uva, organic plates and Portuguese growers by the glass.
€€€€Cocktail barPrincipe Real
Red Frog in Lisbon's Avenida da Liberdade: a doorbell-and-password speakeasy, on the World's 50 Best Bars list, all-night sours and old fashioneds.
€€€€Wine barAlfama
Alfama Gourmet on Rua das Escolas Gerais: a small Alfama wine bar with Portuguese wines, host Nuno walking guests through Douro and Alentejo flights.
€€€€Modern PortugueseChiado
Bairro do Avillez in Chiado, Lisbon: Jose Avillez's 1000 sqm complex housing the Taberna, Pateo, Mini Bar and Pizzaria Lisboa under one roof.
OrderThe Taberna's exploding olives and a glass of Esporao branco.
€€€€Portuguese SeafoodRestauradores
Solar dos Presuntos in Restauradores, Lisbon: a family seafood institution open since 1974, famous for cured ham, Minho cuisine and a celebrity wall.
OrderThe plate of presunto first, then arroz de marisco for two.
€€€€Modern Portuguese TapasChiado
Mini Bar Teatro in Chiado, Lisbon: Jose Avillez's gastrobar in the Sao Luiz theatre, dishes named after stage terms, open from 7pm to 1am daily.
OrderThe Now On tasting menu, eight theatrical small plates.
€€€€Modern PortuguesePrincipe Real
Mercearia do Seculo in Lisbon's Principe Real: a grocer-turned-restaurant where reservations are essential, dried tuna, bacalhau and octopus on a tight menu.
OrderDried tuna starter, then the bacalhau of the day.
€€€€Wine barBairro Alto
Lisbon Winery in Bairro Alto: a tasting bar on Rua das Salgadeiras with vinho verde, alentejo and dao flights guided by a sommelier each evening.
€€€€Modern PortugueseChiado
Cantinho do Avillez in Chiado, Lisbon: Jose Avillez's longest-running room, open since 2011, small plates that travel from Portugal to South America.
OrderThe deep-fried green beans alongside Alentejo-style black pork.
€€€€PeruvianPrincipe Real
A Cevicheria in Lisbon's Principe Real: Kiko Martins's no-reservations Peruvian counter with a giant octopus over the bar, ceviche from Portuguese fish.
OrderThe Ceviche portugues, codfish with rosemary vinegar.
€€€€SteakhouseSao Sebastiao
O Talho in Lisbon's Sao Sebastiao: Kiko Martins's steakhouse you enter through a butcher counter, dry-aged Portuguese beef, Mirandesa breed.
OrderThe Mirandesa ribeye on the bone, sliced at the table.
€€€€Modern PortugueseCais Do Sodre
Pap'Acorda in Cais do Sodre, Lisbon: a Bairro Alto classic reborn at Mercado da Ribeira, still cooking Manuela Brandao's signature seafood acorda.
OrderAcorda de marisco, the bread-and-shellfish stew that named the room.
€€€€Portuguese With Live FadoAlfama
Clube de Fado in Lisbon's Alfama: a 17th-century house turned fado dining room founded by Mario Pacheco, traditional Portuguese cooking with nightly sets.
OrderThe bacalhau Clube and a Douro tinto, fado sets at 21:30 and 23:00.
€€€€Portuguese Seafood and MeatAvenida
Cervejaria Liberdade in Lisbon: a polished seafood hall inside the Tivoli Avenida, Berlenga gooseneck barnacles, Algarve prawns and Aveiro oysters daily.
OrderAlgarve red prawns and a glass of Soalheiro Alvarinho.
€€€€Cocktail barPrincipe Real
Pavilhao Chines in Lisbon's Principe Real: a 1901 grocery turned curio bar, five rooms packed with vintage uniforms, dolls and chandeliers, ring the bell.
€€€€Cocktail barPrincipe Real
Cinco Lounge in Lisbon's Principe Real: a small cocktail room run by a British bartender, a hundred-deep cocktail menu, open 21:00-02:00 daily.
€€€€Cocktail barCais Do Sodre
O Bom, O Mau e O Vilao in Cais do Sodre, Lisbon: a velvet-armchair cocktail and ginjinha bar named for the spaghetti western, open late seven nights.
€€€€Cocktail barBairro Alto
Park in Lisbon's Bairro Alto: a rooftop bar on top of a Calcada do Combro car park with a river view, DJs at sunset, queues from 18:00 in summer.
€€€€Cocktail barAlfama
Outro Lado in Lisbon's Alfama: a craft-beer bar near Casa dos Bicos, twenty rotating Portuguese taps and a long fridge of bottles, the brewery-district scout.
€€€€Cocktail barBairro Alto
The Couvert in Bairro Alto, Lisbon: a 14-seat cocktail room on Rua das Salgadeiras blending Portuguese-pantry drinks and modern bartending, no walk-ins.
€€€€Cocktail barPrincipe Real
Procopio in Lisbon's Principe Real: a wood-panelled 1972 bar listed as a Lisbon heritage venue, classic cocktails and a writers' regulars' room.
€€€€Wine barBairro Alto
Artis Wine Bar in Bairro Alto: a quiet wood-trimmed room on Rua Diario de Noticias pouring Portuguese regional wines with petiscos late into the night.
€€€€Wine barSantos
Insaciavel in Lisbon's Santos: a French-owned neighborhood natural-wine bar, Setubal oysters, Azores limpets and Portuguese cheeses on the terrace.
€€€€Portuguese-internationalLapa
Clube de Jornalistas in Lapa, Lisbon: an 18th-century mansion turned restaurant with a tile-lined private room and a garden for summer service.
OrderBacalhau confit at lunch, served in the inner garden.
€€€€SeafoodChiado
Sea Me Peixaria Moderna in Chiado, Lisbon: a fishmonger that doubles as a restaurant, Portuguese seafood with a Japanese twist on Rua do Loreto.
OrderPick a fish from the counter, ask them to grill it whole.
€€€€Portuguese SeafoodRestauradores
Cervejaria Pinoquio on Lisbon's Praca dos Restauradores: a no-fuss Portuguese seafood room serving from morning to late night, clams and arroz de marisco.
OrderAmeijoas a Bulhao Pato, clams in garlic and coriander.
€€€€Cocktail barBaixa
A Ginjinha in Lisbon's Baixa: a hole-in-the-wall on Largo de Sao Domingos, sour-cherry liqueur served standing for 1.50 euros, open since 1840.
€€€€Cocktail barChiado
TOPO Chiado in Lisbon: a rooftop on top of the Terracos do Carmo car park, gin and tonic with a head-on view of Castelo de Sao Jorge across the valley.
€€€€Cocktail barCais Do Sodre
Pensao Amor in Cais do Sodre, Lisbon: a former brothel turned multi-room cabaret bar, burlesque on weekends, espresso martinis at the gilded counter.
€€€€Cocktail barPrincipe Real
Foxtrot in Lisbon's Principe Real: a 1980s art-deco cellar bar with gigantic mirrors and lacquered tables, classic cocktails and a 40-year reputation.
€€€€Wine barCais Do Sodre
Vino Vero in Lisbon's Cais do Sodre: a Venetian-import natural-wine bar pouring boutique Italian and Portuguese growers, no booking, no reservation.