Modern Portuguese€€€cais-do-sodre
Pap'Acorda in Cais do Sodre, Lisbon: a Bairro Alto classic reborn at Mercado da Ribeira, still cooking Manuela Brandao's signature seafood acorda.
Signature: Acorda de marisco, Chocolate mousse
Order: Acorda de marisco, the bread-and-shellfish stew that named the room.
Portuguese tasca€mouraria
Ze dos Cornos in Lisbon's Mouraria: a tile-walled tasca on Beco dos Surradores, charcoal-grilled pork ribs at 12 euros, cash only, no bookings.
Signature: Garlic pork ribs, Pataniscas de bacalhau
Order: Charcoal-grilled pork ribs with rice and beans.
Modern Portuguese€€Graca
Damas in Lisbon's Graca: a bakery-bar-bistro hybrid on Rua da Voz do Operario, modern Portuguese plates by day, live music and natural wine by night.
Signature: Daily specials, Natural wines
Order: Whatever the chef wrote on the blackboard plus a glass of natural pet-nat.
Portuguese seafood and beer hall€€chiado
Cervejaria Trindade in Chiado, Lisbon: an 1836 beer hall in the old Trinitarian convent, blue azulejos walls, prawns, steaks and Sagres on tap.
Signature: Steak Trindade, Tiger prawns
Order: Steak Trindade in beer sauce and a Sagres on tap.
Seafood€€€Intendente
Cervejaria Ramiro in Lisbon: a 1950s seafood hall on Avenida Almirante Reis where goose barnacles, tiger prawns and clams come straight off the boat.
Signature: Goose barnacles, Tiger prawns, Steak sandwich
Order: Ameijoas a Bulhao Pato then a prego no pao to close.
Modern Portuguese€€€€bairro-alto
100 Maneiras in Lisbon's Bairro Alto: Ljubomir Stanisic's Bosnian-Portuguese tasting room, ten courses nightly. Reservation essential.
Signature: Tasting menu
Order: Whichever ten-course tasting menu the kitchen is running this season.