Modern Portuguese€€chiado
Taberna da Rua das Flores in Chiado, Lisbon: Andre Magalhaes cooks Portugal's colonial-route flavours from a blackboard menu, cash only, no bookings.
Signature: Daily blackboard
Order: Whatever Magalhaes has chalked on the board for the day.
Farm-to-table Portuguese€€€Baixa
Prado in Lisbon's Baixa: Antonio Galapito cooks farm-to-table Portuguese in a converted fish factory with Roman ruins, biodynamic wine list.
Signature: Whole fish, Seasonal vegetables
Order: The vegetable starters and whichever whole fish landed that morning.
Peruvian€€€principe-real
A Cevicheria in Lisbon's Principe Real: Kiko Martins's no-reservations Peruvian counter with a giant octopus over the bar, ceviche from Portuguese fish.
Signature: Ceviche puro, Ceviche portugues
Order: The Ceviche portugues, codfish with rosemary vinegar.
Pan-Asian€€chiado
Boa-Bao in Chiado, Lisbon: pan-Asian street food from Thailand, Vietnam, Korea, Malaysia and Japan, served in a 1920s Asian-market themed room since 2017.
Signature: Pad thai, Bao buns, Penang curry
Order: Two bao buns then the kao soi, soup-fried noodle hybrid.
Modern Portuguese tasca€€mouraria
O Velho Eurico in Lisbon's Mouraria: Ze Paulo Rocha's neo-tasca behind Sao Cristovao church, modern takes on Portuguese classics, books months ahead.
Signature: Octopus salad, Bacalhau a Bras
Order: The octopus salad and a glass of vinho verde.
Portuguese-international€€€Lapa
Clube de Jornalistas in Lapa, Lisbon: an 18th-century mansion turned restaurant with a tile-lined private room and a garden for summer service.
Signature: Bacalhau confit, Roast lamb
Order: Bacalhau confit at lunch, served in the inner garden.