Modern Portuguese€€€chiado
Bairro do Avillez in Chiado, Lisbon: Jose Avillez's 1000 sqm complex housing the Taberna, Pateo, Mini Bar and Pizzaria Lisboa under one roof.
Signature: Octopus a lagareiro, Bairro suckling pig
Order: The Taberna's exploding olives and a glass of Esporao branco.
Modern Portuguese€€€chiado
Cantinho do Avillez in Chiado, Lisbon: Jose Avillez's longest-running room, open since 2011, small plates that travel from Portugal to South America.
Signature: Black pork Alentejo style, Scallops with avocado
Order: The deep-fried green beans alongside Alentejo-style black pork.
Portuguese seafood€€€Restauradores
Solar dos Presuntos in Restauradores, Lisbon: a family seafood institution open since 1974, famous for cured ham, Minho cuisine and a celebrity wall.
Signature: Arroz de marisco, Roast kid, Bacalhau a Braz
Order: The plate of presunto first, then arroz de marisco for two.
Modern Portuguese€€chiado
Taberna da Rua das Flores in Chiado, Lisbon: Andre Magalhaes cooks Portugal's colonial-route flavours from a blackboard menu, cash only, no bookings.
Signature: Daily blackboard
Order: Whatever Magalhaes has chalked on the board for the day.
Farm-to-table Portuguese€€€Baixa
Prado in Lisbon's Baixa: Antonio Galapito cooks farm-to-table Portuguese in a converted fish factory with Roman ruins, biodynamic wine list.
Signature: Whole fish, Seasonal vegetables
Order: The vegetable starters and whichever whole fish landed that morning.
Peruvian€€€principe-real
A Cevicheria in Lisbon's Principe Real: Kiko Martins's no-reservations Peruvian counter with a giant octopus over the bar, ceviche from Portuguese fish.
Signature: Ceviche puro, Ceviche portugues
Order: The Ceviche portugues, codfish with rosemary vinegar.