The riverside quarter between Plaza Nueva and the bullring, with Casa Morales since 1850, La Brunilda modern tapas and the Lonja del Barranco gastromarket on the Guadalquivir.
La Brunilda on Calle Galera in Seville's El Arenal quarter is the modern-tapas room that runs a quietly inventive menu of risottos, rices and small plates.
Signature: Mushroom risotto, Goat-cheese salad, Squid-ink rice
Order: The mushroom risotto and the goat-cheese-and-fig salad; the squid-ink rice on weekends.
Tip: Open Tue-Sun 13:00-16:00 and 20:30-23:30. Reservations by phone only; queue from 19:30 for a bar seat if you arrive without booking.
Casa Morales on Calle Garcia de Vinuesa in Seville's El Arenal is the bodega since 1850, the city's archetypal wine-cask room with vermut pulled.
Signature: Solomillo al whisky, Carrillada en salsa, Vermut from the barrel
Order: The solomillo al whisky and the carrillada en salsa with a copa of vermut from the cask.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00 and 20:00-24:00, closed Sunday Booking recommended for weekends.
Bodeguita Casablanca on Calle Adolfo Rodriguez Jurado in Seville is run by the Casablanca cousins Antonio and Tomas near Puerta de Jerez, lauded.
Signature: Huevos a la flamenca, Carrillada iberica, Tartar de atun
Order: The huevos a la flamenca and the carrillada iberica con salsa de oloroso.
Tip: Open Mon-Fri 07:00-17:00 and 20:15-00:30, Sat 12:30-17:30, closed Sunday. The bar is faster; the back dining room takes reservations.
Casa Morales on Calle Garcia de Vinuesa in Seville's El Arenal is the bodega since 1850 with vermut pulled from giant wood casks and a cured-meat counter.
Signature: Solomillo al whisky, Vermut from the barrel, Carrillada
Order: Solomillo al whisky and the carrillada en salsa with a copa of vermut from the cask.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00 and 20:00-24:00, closed Sunday Walk-ins usually OK.
La Brunilda on Calle Galera in Seville's El Arenal is the modern-tapas room with risottos, rices and Mediterranean small plates that locals queue.
Signature: Mushroom risotto, Goat-cheese salad, Squid-ink rice
Order: Mushroom risotto and goat-cheese-and-fig salad.
Tip: Open Tue-Sun 13:00-16:00 and 20:30-23:30. Reservations by phone only; queue from 19:30 for a bar seat without booking.
Bodeguita Casablanca on Calle Adolfo Rodriguez Jurado in Seville is run by the Casablanca cousins Antonio and Tomas near Puerta de Jerez, lauded.
Signature: Huevos a la flamenca, Carrillada iberica, Tartar de atun
Order: Huevos a la flamenca and carrillada iberica with oloroso sauce.
Tip: Open Mon-Fri 07:00-17:00 and 20:15-00:30, Sat 12:30-17:30, closed Sunday. The standing bar is faster.
Manana Cocktail Club on Calle Pastor y Landero in Seville's El Arenal is a quiet craft-cocktail speakeasy near the Mercado del Arenal, with a tightly-edited.
Tip: Reservations recommended Fri-Sat; small room with about 30 seats. Cocktails 10 to 14 euros.
El Distrito on Calle Adriano in Seville is the small hidden cocktail room near the bullring with a 40-bottle whisky-and-mezcal list and a tightly-edited.
Tip: Hidden behind a residential door; reservations by phone or Instagram. Cocktails 10 to 15 euros.