Funicular-served hilltop quarter with the city's biggest pastry shops at Moccia and Otranto, Caffe Mexico and the friggitoria counters of Via Cimarosa.
Salumeria Upnea on Vomero in Naples is the deli-bistro hybrid pouring Campania natural wines, with salumi-and-cheese boards and a daily-changing pasta from the kitchen behind the counter.
Signature: Salumi e formaggi, Pasta alla genovese, Caciocavallo impiccato
Order: The salumi flight, pasta alla genovese, caciocavallo impiccato with grilled bread.
Tip: Closed Monday. Open daily 12:00 to 23:00 otherwise. Walk-in counter; bookings for the back room.
Salumeria Upnea on Vomero in Naples is the deli-bistro hybrid pouring Campania natural wines, with salumi-and-cheese boards and a daily-changing pasta from the kitchen behind the counter.
Order: The salumi flight, pasta alla genovese, caciocavallo impiccato with grilled bread.
Tip: Closed Monday. Open daily 12:00 to 23:00 otherwise. Walk-in counter; bookings for the back room.
Moccia in Naples' Chiaia (with the Vomero branch) has run the pastry-and-coffee counter since 1936, with the sfogliatella riccia and the babà au rhum the local order.
Signature drink: Espresso, sfogliatella riccia
Tip: Open Tue-Sun 07:00 to 21:00; closed Monday. The sfogliatella sells out by 11:00 on Saturdays.
Leopoldo in Naples is the historic taralli-and-pastry chain founded in 1940, now run from Casavatore with the city centre cafes selling the sugna-and-pepper taralli and the modern sfogliatella.
Signature drink: Espresso, taralli, sfogliatella
Tip: Multiple branches across town; the Vomero flagship has the longest counter. Taralli retail at 8 euros per kilo.
Caffè Mexico's Vomero branch on Via Scarlatti runs the same pre-sweetened cup the Piazza Dante original made famous, with five branches across the city pouring the dense Neapolitan blend.
Signature drink: Espresso, caffè zuccherato
Tip: Counter only. Order 'normale' for pre-sweetened or 'amaro' for no sugar. Cup is one euro 20 at the counter.
Scaturchio's Vomero branch carries the same 1905 family carte as the Piazza San Domenico Maggiore mother shop, with the ministeriale and the babà au rhum the standout buys.
Signature drink: Espresso, ministeriale
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 20:30 at the Vomero branch. The Vomero terrace seating is the calmest in the chain.
Leopoldo in Naples is the historic taralli-and-pastry brand founded in 1940, now run from Casavatore with city-centre cafes selling the sugna-and-pepper taralli and the modern sfogliatella.
Tip: Multiple branches across town; the Vomero flagship has the longest counter. Taralli retail at 8 euros per kilo.
Worth the queue: Taralli sugna e pepe
Scaturchio's Vomero branch carries the same 1905 family carte as the Piazza San Domenico Maggiore mother shop, with the ministeriale and the babà au rhum the standout buys.
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 20:30. The Vomero terrace seating is the calmest in the chain.
Worth the queue: Ministeriale
Poppella's Vomero branch carries the same fiocco di neve from the Sanita mother shop, with the family expanding to three branches across town since the 2014 cult-hit launch.
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 22:00 at the Vomero branch. Fiocco di neve runs 1 euro 50; bakery boxes go for 12 euros.
Worth the queue: Fiocco di neve
Leopoldo's Vomero branch on Via Scarlatti pours the same taralli sugna and pepper as the Casavatore mother shop, plus the daily sfogliatella and the babà run.
Tip: Open daily 06:30 to 21:30. Taralli retail at 8 euros per kilo; sfogliatella runs 2 euros at the counter.
Worth the queue: Taralli sugna e pepe
Kimbo's Vomero branch on Via Cimarosa runs the same Espresso Napoletano intense blend as the centro storico flagship, with whole bean retail and pods across the centre.
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 22:00. Whole-bean retail at 10 euros 250g; coffee pods at 8 euros for 16.
Sources from: Brazil, Colombia, Ethiopia
How they serve: Espresso, Whole bean retail, Pods
Salumeria Upnea on Vomero in Naples runs a Campania-led natural-wine list of 180 bottles with the daily salumi-cheese boards and a four-table back room for sit-down service.
Signature pour: Pierluigi Zampaglione Don Chisciotte Fiano by the glass
Wine focus: Campania natural wines, biodynamic
Food: Salumi, cheese, daily pasta
Tip: Closed Monday. Walk-in counter for wine by the glass; book back room for groups.
Friggitoria Vomero in Naples is the funicular-station fritti counter (since 1938) serving the cuoppo di mare (anchovies, calamari, prawns) and the cuoppo di terra (crocchè, frittatine, arancini) in paper cones.
Try: Fritti cuoppo (mixed fritti in paper cone)
Tip: Closed Sunday. Cash only. Cuoppo medium runs 6 euros; queue forms 18:00 to 19:30 for the aperitivo crowd.
Leopoldo in Naples has baked the taralli sugna and pepper (lard-and-pepper ring crackers) since 1940, the standing salty snack to walk with on the funicular ride to the Vomero.
Try: Taralli sugna e pepe
Tip: Taralli sold by the gram from the counter; a 200g bag runs 4 euros 50, perfect for the Vomero walk.
Hoppy Ending in Naples' Vomero is the fashionable neighbourhood's craft beer specialist with six rotating taps of Italian ales and a curated fridge of international labels, a quieter alternative to the Chiaia beer crawl.
Tip: The Vomero location draws a local 25-35 crowd rather than tourists; ask the bar team for the Campanian tap recommendation.
Antignano market in Naples' Vomero is the neighbourhood's daily produce hall, with fruit and vegetable vendors, a fishmonger, a butcher and a pastry counter serving the residential Vomero hill from Monday to Saturday.
Tip: The Vomero market is calmer and less touristic than Pignasecca. The pastry counter on the south end opens at 07:30 with fresh cornetti.
Friggitoria Vomero in Naples is the funicular-station fritti counter since 1938, with the cuoppo di mare (mixed fried seafood in a paper cone) at 6 euros, the city's best-value seafood counter.
Try: Cuoppo di mare
Tip: Closed Sunday. Cash only. Queue forms 18:00 to 19:30 for the aperitivo crowd; arrive earlier for shorter wait.