16th-century grid of narrow lanes above Via Toledo, with Trattoria Nennella, Tandem ragu sandwich and pizzerias that locals queue for at lunch.
Nennella in Naples' Quartieri Spagnoli runs the most theatrical service in town: shouted orders, plastic stools, 13-euro three-course lunch.
Signature: Pasta e patate con provola, Polpette al sugo, Pasta alla genovese
Order: Pasta e patate con provola, polpette al sugo, the daily Quartieri Spagnoli antipasto.
Tip: No bookings, cash only. Arrive by 12:00 for lunch or 19:00 for dinner. Closed Sunday all day.
Nennella in Naples' Quartieri Spagnoli runs the most theatrical service in town: shouted orders, plastic stools, 13-euro three-course lunch.
Order: Pasta e patate con provola, polpette al sugo, daily Quartieri Spagnoli antipasto.
Tip: No bookings, cash only. Arrive by 12:00 for lunch or 19:00 for dinner. Closed Sunday all day.
Nennella in Naples' Quartieri Spagnoli runs a 12-euro three-course lunch with shouted orders, pasta e patate con provola and the daily Quartieri Spagnoli.
Try: Three-course working-class lunch
Tip: Cash only. Arrive by 12:00 for lunch or 19:00 for dinner; no bookings.
Otto Jazz Club tucks a softly lit room into Salita Cariati on the Quartieri Spagnoli slope, with a programme of straight-ahead jazz, swing and bossa sets.
Tip: Cocktails run from around thirteen euros to eighteen for specials; reserve a table close to the stage as the room is small. Sets typically start at 22:00.
Cammarota Spritz has anchored Vico Lungo Teatro Nuovo in the Quartieri Spagnoli as the city's canonical one-euro Aperol spritz counter, with a tiny inside.
Tip: Cash only and queues build past 19:00; the alley is the room. The base spritz is one euro and the bar shuts when the Aperol runs out.