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MexicanXochimilco
Ancestral in Xochimilco is the thatched-roof grove on Lopez Alavez, well away from Centro tourist flow, with the seven-moles tasting platter as the headline.
Why locals goIn Barrio de Xochimilco, the weaving quarter most tourists never reach; thatched-roof grove.
TipTake a taxi (the Lopez Alavez block is a steep climb); book the moles tasting for two.
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Street foodCentro Historico
The empanadas-de-amarillo grandmas at Plaza Llano cook only Friday to Sunday afternoons, folding thin masa around mole amarillo and quesillo on the comal.
Why locals goWeekend-only street vendors that don't show up on Google Maps; a dozen abuelas with charcoal griddles.
TipFriday-Sunday from 16:00; expect to share a bench, the bench at the corner of Plaza Llano is the centre.
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MexicanCentro Historico
Cabuche on Hidalgo is the locals' Centro lunch room with a 100-peso comida corrida, pulque on tap and the deepest fermented-drink list in the centro.
Why locals goMostly local lunch crowd with a comida-corrida menu rather than a tourist a la carte, and the deepest pulque-mezcal-craft-beer list in Centro Oaxaca.
TipOrder the 100-peso comida corrida; the pulque-cerveza pours are the deep cut.
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Street foodCentro Historico
El Volador in the Plaza de la Danza Jardin Socrates is one of the tejate stands by the lake bandstand, whisked from cacao, maize and mamey to a foam.
Why locals goHalf-hidden between bandstand benches on the Jardin Socrates lake, only tejate sellers know.
TipBring your own gourd cup if you can; otherwise the disposable serves are 30 pesos.
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Cocktail barJalatlaco
Pulqueria Jalatlaco on Aldama is a four-stool barrio counter pouring fermented agave and curados (tuna, mango, apio) with a small botana board on the side.
Why locals goOn a quiet side street; a small four-stool counter; locals only; opens Wednesday afternoons, with curados and a small botana board for slow drinks.
TipTry the pulque curado de apio (celery) if it's available; sour, herbal, fizzy.
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MexicanCentro Historico
Suculenta on Porfirio Diaz is a hand-crafted condiment gallery with seasonal Sierra Norte mushroom plates and wild herbs, inside the Boulenc courtyard.
Why locals goHand-crafted condiment gallery rather than a sit-down room; small kitchen with rotating menu.
TipGo for the wild Sierra Norte mushroom plate when it's in season (Jul-Sep); call ahead.