Ancestral Cocina Tradicional is a traditional oaxacan restaurant in Xochimilco, Oaxaca.
Ancestral in Xochimilco is the thatched-roof grove on Lopez Alavez, well away from Centro tourist flow, with the seven-moles tasting platter as the headline.
Why locals love it: In Barrio de Xochimilco, the weaving quarter most tourists never reach; thatched-roof grove.
Tip: Take a taxi (the Lopez Alavez block is a steep climb); book the moles tasting for two.
Address: C. Jose Lopez Alavez 1347, Barrio de Xochimilco, 68040 Oaxaca de Juarez, Oaxaca
The empanadas-de-amarillo grandmas at Plaza Llano cook only Friday to Sunday afternoons, folding thin masa around mole amarillo and quesillo on the comal.
Why locals love it: Weekend-only street vendors that don't show up on Google Maps; a dozen abuelas with charcoal griddles.
Tip: Friday-Sunday from 16:00; expect to share a bench, the bench at the corner of Plaza Llano is the centre.
Cabuche on Hidalgo is the locals' Centro lunch room with a 100-peso comida corrida, pulque on tap and the deepest fermented-drink list in the centro.
Why locals love it: Mostly local lunch crowd with a comida-corrida menu rather than a tourist a la carte, and the deepest pulque-mezcal-craft-beer list in Centro Oaxaca.
Tip: Order the 100-peso comida corrida; the pulque-cerveza pours are the deep cut.
El Volador in the Plaza de la Danza Jardin Socrates is one of the tejate stands by the lake bandstand, whisked from cacao, maize and mamey to a foam.
Why locals love it: Half-hidden between bandstand benches on the Jardin Socrates lake, only tejate sellers know.
Tip: Bring your own gourd cup if you can; otherwise the disposable serves are 30 pesos.
Pulqueria Jalatlaco on Aldama is a four-stool barrio counter pouring fermented agave and curados (tuna, mango, apio) with a small botana board on the side.
Why locals love it: On a quiet side street; a small four-stool counter; locals only; opens Wednesday afternoons, with curados and a small botana board for slow drinks.
Tip: Try the pulque curado de apio (celery) if it's available; sour, herbal, fizzy.
Suculenta on Porfirio Diaz is a hand-crafted condiment gallery with seasonal Sierra Norte mushroom plates and wild herbs, inside the Boulenc courtyard.
Why locals love it: Hand-crafted condiment gallery rather than a sit-down room; small kitchen with rotating menu.
Tip: Go for the wild Sierra Norte mushroom plate when it's in season (Jul-Sep); call ahead.
Tlayudas Las Animas on Mariano Matamoros 203 is the Thursday-to-Saturday night-grill stand near Carmen Alto, quieter than Libres just blocks away.
Why locals love it: Thursday-to-Saturday only, in front of the Carmen Alto church; locals know not to confuse with Libres.
Tip: Lighter crowd than Tlayudas Libres; order the tlayuda with tasajo and quesillo for the canonical bite.
