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Street foodCentro Historico
El Volador in the Plaza de la Danza Jardin Socrates is one of the tejate stands by the lake bandstand, whisked from cacao, maize and mamey to a foam.
Why locals goHalf-hidden between bandstand benches on the Jardin Socrates lake, only tejate sellers know.
TipBring your own gourd cup if you can; otherwise the disposable serves are 30 pesos.
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Cocktail barJalatlaco
Pulqueria Jalatlaco on Aldama is a four-stool barrio counter pouring fermented agave and curados (tuna, mango, apio) with a small botana board on the side.
Why locals goOn a quiet side street; a small four-stool counter; locals only; opens Wednesday afternoons, with curados and a small botana board for slow drinks.
TipTry the pulque curado de apio (celery) if it's available; sour, herbal, fizzy.
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MexicanCentro Historico
Suculenta on Porfirio Diaz is a hand-crafted condiment gallery with seasonal Sierra Norte mushroom plates and wild herbs, inside the Boulenc courtyard.
Why locals goHand-crafted condiment gallery rather than a sit-down room; small kitchen with rotating menu.
TipGo for the wild Sierra Norte mushroom plate when it's in season (Jul-Sep); call ahead.
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Street foodCentro Historico
Tlayudas Las Animas on Mariano Matamoros 203 is the Thursday-to-Saturday night-grill stand near Carmen Alto, quieter than Libres just blocks away.
Why locals goThursday-to-Saturday only, in front of the Carmen Alto church; locals know not to confuse with Libres.
TipLighter crowd than Tlayudas Libres; order the tlayuda with tasajo and quesillo for the canonical bite.
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MexicanReforma
Yu Ne Nisa in Reforma is the under-the-radar Istmeno-Zapotec room on Amapolas, with totopos istmenos and chile rellenos de marlin in a quiet street.
Why locals goA 20-minute taxi from Centro into Reforma residential blocks where few tourists go, Istmeno cooking with depth.
TipTake a taxi, the address is hard to spot from the corner of Amapolas and Coniraya.
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MexicanReforma
La Teca in Reforma is Deyanira Aquino's home-kitchen Istmo room with five tables, no sign and 30 years of garnachas-on-banana-leaf cooking unchanged.
Why locals goFive tables in a Reforma residential street; no sign, no website; you knock at the door.
TipBook by phone the day before (951 515 0563); lunch only, 14:00-16:30.