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Street foodCentro Historico
El Huequito in Mexico City is the 1959 Centro Historico al pastor stand on Ayuntamiento, one of the earliest taqueria operations to plate the trompo-cut pork.
OrderThree tacos al pastor with the house red salsa; a pina (pineapple) agua fresca on the side.
TipThe original Ayuntamiento alley counter is barely a window in the wall; sit-down branches now run across the city but the original counter is the relic.
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Street foodCondesa
El Tizoncito in Mexico City is the 1966 Condesa taqueria on Tamaulipas that claims to have invented the modern tacos al pastor served on a small corn.
OrderFour tacos al pastor con pina; a side of grilled green onions.
TipThe Tamaulipas original holds the strictest quality control; the sister branches scattered across Polanco and other neighbourhoods are looser.
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Street foodNarvarteCash only
El Vilsito in Mexico City is the Narvarte mechanic shop by day and taqueria by night on Peten, a Bib Gourmand spot where the al pastor trompo fires up.
OrderFive tacos al pastor with the house green and red salsas; a Coca-Cola in a glass bottle.
TipOpen evenings only; the queue is real after midnight Friday and Saturday. Cash; metro Eugenia is the easiest arrival.
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Street foodCentro HistoricoCash only
Los Cocuyos in Mexico City is the 24-hour Centro Historico taqueria on Bolivar since 1980, the Bib Gourmand counter known for melting suadero, longaniza.
OrderThree suadero tacos with both salsas; a campechano (mixed suadero and longaniza).
TipOpen 24 hours; a second annex three doors down has tables and is the quieter option after midnight.
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Street foodCondesa
El Califa in Mexico City is the Condesa taqueria chain on Altata since 1980, the late-night al carbon counter that runs to 04:00 and is the standard Condesa.
OrderTres tacos campechanos; one taco gaonera; a side of esquites.
TipLate night runs hot; the Altata flagship has the longest hours. El Califa de Leon on San Cosme is the sibling that earned a 2024 Michelin star.
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Street foodSan RafaelCash only
Tacos El Califa de Leon in Mexico City is the San Rafael trompo-cut taqueria on Ribera de San Cosme, the world's first taqueria to earn a Michelin star.
OrderThe taco gaonera; the taco al pastor; the green and red house salsas.
TipTiny standing counter; lines run two hours since the Michelin star landed. Cash only. Open lunch and into the evening.
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Street foodRoma NorteCash only
Tlacoyos Dona Jose in Mexico City is the Roma Norte breakfast comal on Cordoba, the comal-griddle counter that puts out blue-corn tlacoyos filled with frijol.
OrderTwo tlacoyos de haba topped with nopales, queso fresco and salsa verde.
TipCash only and weekday mornings only; the queue forms around 09:00 with neighbourhood regulars. Last sale is when the masa runs out.
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Street foodRoma NorteCash only
Tamales Dona Emi in Mexico City is the Roma Norte morning tamal cart on the corner of Alvaro Obregon and Cordoba, the weekday breakfast stand that wraps.
OrderA guajolota (tamal in a torta) with atole de fresa; one tamal mole on the side.
TipOpen until the masa is gone, usually by noon. Cash only; the regulars start queueing at 07:30 on weekdays.
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Street foodCondesaCash only
Esquites Don Fermin in Mexico City is the Hipodromo Condesa evening cart on Citlaltepetl at Insurgentes Sur, a long-running esquites stand that ladles.
OrderEsquites with mayo, cotija, chile piquin and lime; an elote on the cob to go.
TipCash only; an esquite goes for about 40 pesos. The cart is mobile; check Instagram for the night's exact corner.
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Street foodCentro Historico
Churreria El Moro in Mexico City is the 1935 Centro Historico churros counter on Eje Central, the 24-hour churro and chocolate window that still pipes hot.
OrderA half-dozen churros with chocolate espanol (the thickest of the four chocolates on offer).
TipThe Centro flagship runs 24 hours. The newer Roma branches close at midnight; visit the original for the relic counter.
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Street foodCentro HistoricoCash only
Tortas El Cuadrilatero in Mexico City is the Centro torta counter on Luis Moya opened in 1991 by the family of luchador Super Astro, walls covered in masks.
OrderThe Gladiador kilogram torta if you can; otherwise the regular Pierna with chipotle and queso Oaxaca.
TipClosed Sundays; the Gladiador is free if you finish in 15 minutes. Cash only and arrive hungry.
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Street foodCoyoacanCash only
Tostadas Coyoacan in Mexico City is the cluster of yellow-and-orange-signed tostada stalls inside Mercado de Coyoacan on Ignacio Allende, the city's most.
OrderOne tostada de pulpo; one tostada de tinga; a tostada de pata.
TipArrive before 14:00 for the freshest mariscos and to avoid the post-Frida crowd.