El Cardenal in Mexico City is the Briz family's 1969 Centro Historico room on Palma, the traditional Mexican breakfast institution where hot chocolate is frothed tableside with raw-milk nata.
Signature dishes: Hot chocolate, Pan de nata, Chiles en nogada
Must order: The hot chocolate with pan de nata; chiles en nogada when in season July to September.
Tip: Open 08:00 to 18:00; the Centro location seats four floors and still queues by 09:30 on Sunday morning.
Address: Calle de la Palma 23, Centro Historico, Cuauhtemoc, 06000 Ciudad de Mexico, Mexico City
Cafe de Tacuba in Mexico City is the Mollinedo family's 1912 Centro Historico room on Tacuba, the colonial-palace dining hall that defines traditional Mexican capital cooking.
Signature: Enchiladas de mole, Tamales, Chicken in mole poblano
Order: The enchiladas de mole; the tamales served with hot chocolate.
Tip: Open daily 08:00 to 23:00. The Sunday strolling student trio singing Aztec songs starts around 13:00; mariachi runs evenings.
Azul Historico in Mexico City is chef Ricardo Munoz Zurita's traditional Mexican kitchen inside the courtyard of the Downtown Mexico hotel on Isabel la Catolica, with Mexican regional moles as the spine.
Signature: Mole negro, Cochinita pibil, Chiles en nogada
Order: The mole negro from Oaxaca; the cochinita pibil tacos.
Tip: Sit in the open courtyard under the Indian laurel; ask for the table closest to the fountain. Brunch lasts till 17:00 weekends.
Cafe de Tacuba in Mexico City is the Mollinedo family's 1912 Centro Historico room on Tacuba, the colonial-palace dining hall that defines traditional Mexican capital cooking.
Signature: Enchiladas de mole, Tamales, Chicken in mole poblano
Order: The enchiladas de mole; the tamales served with hot chocolate.
Tip: Open daily 08:00 to 23:00. The Sunday strolling student trio singing Aztec songs starts around 13:00; mariachi runs evenings.
Loma Linda in Mexico City is the 1924 Mexican steakhouse that claims first-charcoal-grill credit in the capital, with the Plaza Carso branch on Lago Zurich carrying the Polanco service since 2011 with a rooftop terrace facing the Museo Soumaya.
Signature: Cabreria, Arrachera, Cortes de Angus
Order: The cabreria; the molcajete-grilled arrachera with handmade tortillas.
Tip: Plaza Carso location runs daily 13:00 to 23:30; the original Avenida Insurgentes Sur branch is the older sister.
Havre 77 in Mexico City is Eduardo Lalo Garcia's classic French bistro in Juarez, the Maximo Bistrot sister room that pours natural wine and serves a plateau de fruits de mer on weekends.
Signature: Steak frites, Coq au vin, Plateau de fruits de mer
Order: The steak frites; the plateau de fruits de mer to share, weekend lunch only.
Tip: Closed Mondays. Walks-ins land easier than booking; the wine list runs deep on Loire natural pours.
Azul Historico in Mexico City is chef Ricardo Munoz Zurita's traditional Mexican kitchen inside the courtyard of the Downtown Mexico hotel on Isabel la Catolica, with Mexican regional moles as the spine.
Signature: Mole negro, Cochinita pibil, Chiles en nogada
Order: The mole negro from Oaxaca; the cochinita pibil tacos.
Tip: Sit in the open courtyard under the Indian laurel; ask for the table closest to the fountain. Brunch lasts till 17:00 weekends.
El Bajio in Mexico City is chef Carmen Titita Ramirez's Veracruz-rooted regional Mexican kitchen with locations across the city, with the Polanco branch carrying the original Azcapotzalco menu.
Signature: Carnitas, Empanadas de platano, Mole de Xico
Order: The carnitas; the empanadas de platano with frijoles refritos.
Tip: Open daily 09:00 to 22:00; the Azcapotzalco original opened 1972 and is the deeper room for connoisseurs.
Nicos in Mexico City is Gerardo Vazquez Lugo's family-run Azcapotzalco room on Cuitlahuac, the traditional Mexican kitchen ranked on the Latin America 50 Best list and a national institution.
Signature: Mole Almendrado, Sopa seca de natas, Aguachile
Order: The mole almendrado; the sopa seca de natas, a layered creamy casserole.
Tip: Closed Sunday dinner and Monday; the slow-cooked moles are the move at lunch. Worth the cab from Polanco for the home-cooking depth.
