Traditional Mexican$$$centro-historico
Azul Historico in Mexico City is chef Ricardo Munoz Zurita's traditional Mexican kitchen inside the courtyard of the Downtown Mexico hotel on Isabel la.
Signature: Mole negro, Cochinita pibil, Chiles en nogada
Order: The mole negro from Oaxaca; the cochinita pibil tacos.
Tip: Sit in the open courtyard under the Indian laurel; ask for the table closest to the fountain. Brunch lasts till 17:00 weekends.
Veracruz Mexican$$polanco
El Bajio in Mexico City is chef Carmen Titita Ramirez's Veracruz-rooted regional Mexican kitchen with locations across the city, with the Polanco branch.
Signature: Carnitas, Empanadas de platano, Mole de Xico
Order: The carnitas; the empanadas de platano with frijoles refritos.
Tip: Open daily 09:00-22:00; the Azcapotzalco original opened 1972 and is the deeper room for connoisseurs.
Traditional Mexican$$$azcapotzalco
Nicos in Mexico City is Gerardo Vazquez Lugo's family-run Azcapotzalco room on Cuitlahuac, the traditional Mexican kitchen ranked on the Latin America 50.
Signature: Mole Almendrado, Sopa seca de natas, Aguachile
Order: The mole almendrado; the sopa seca de natas, a layered creamy casserole.
Tip: Closed Sunday dinner and Monday; the slow-cooked moles are the move at lunch. Worth the cab from Polanco for the home-cooking depth.
Hidalgo Barbacoa$$roma-norte
El Hidalguense in Mexico City is the Roma Sur weekend-only barbacoa pit on Campeche, the Hidalgo-style maguey-pit lamb that fills the room from Friday.
Signature: Barbacoa de borrego, Consomé de borrego, Pancita
Order: The barbacoa de borrego with consomé; the pancita stew on the side.
Tip: Open Friday to Sunday only, 07:00-18:00. Arrive by 09:30 Sunday or the consomé runs out by noon.
Heirloom-corn Mexican$$roma-norte
Expendio de Maiz in Mexico City is chef Jesus Salas' tiny no-reservations heirloom-corn counter on Yucatan in Roma Norte, the kitchen that built its name.
Signature: Heirloom-corn tortillas, Tlacoyos, Quesadillas de masa azul
Order: Whatever the daily handwritten menu lists; the blue-corn tlacoyo with squash blossoms.
Tip: No reservations; only ten counter seats. Open Wed-Sun 13:00-19:00; arrive at opening and bring cash.
Traditional Mexican$$$san-angel
San Angel Inn in Mexico City is the 1692 hacienda turned restaurant on Diego Rivera, a courtyard-and-garden colonial room in San Angel where the Margarita.
Signature: Chiles en nogada, Sopa de tortilla, Margaritas Sabra
Order: Chiles en nogada when in season July to September; the sopa de tortilla year round.
Tip: The patio is the seat; book two weeks ahead for Saturday lunch under the bougainvillea. Mariachi runs Sunday afternoon.