Nicos in Mexico City is Gerardo Vazquez Lugo's family-run Azcapotzalco room on Cuitlahuac, the traditional Mexican kitchen ranked on the Latin America 50 Best list and a national institution.
Signature dishes: Mole Almendrado, Sopa seca de natas, Aguachile
Must order: The mole almendrado; the sopa seca de natas, a layered creamy casserole.
Tip: Closed Sunday dinner and Monday; the slow-cooked moles are the move at lunch. Worth the cab from Polanco for the home-cooking depth.
Address: Av. Cuitlahuac 3102, Clavería, Azcapotzalco, 02080 Ciudad de Mexico, Mexico City
El Hidalguense in Mexico City is the Roma Sur weekend-only barbacoa pit on Campeche, the Hidalgo-style maguey-pit lamb that fills the room from Friday through Sunday morning.
Signature: Barbacoa de borrego, Consomé de borrego, Pancita
Order: The barbacoa de borrego with consomé; the pancita stew on the side.
Tip: Open Friday to Sunday only, 07:00 to 18:00. Arrive by 09:30 Sunday or the consomé runs out by noon.
Expendio de Maiz in Mexico City is chef Jesus Salas' tiny no-reservations heirloom-corn counter on Yucatan in Roma Norte, the kitchen that built its name on native masa from Oaxaca and Tlaxcala.
Signature: Heirloom-corn tortillas, Tlacoyos, Quesadillas de masa azul
Order: Whatever the daily handwritten menu lists; the blue-corn tlacoyo with squash blossoms.
Tip: No reservations; only ten counter seats. Open Wed-Sun 13:00 to 19:00; arrive at opening and bring cash.
San Angel Inn in Mexico City is the 1692 hacienda turned restaurant on Diego Rivera, a courtyard-and-garden colonial room in San Angel where the Margarita Sabra is the city's most-poured Saturday brunch cocktail.
Signature: Chiles en nogada, Sopa de tortilla, Margaritas Sabra
Order: Chiles en nogada when in season July to September; the sopa de tortilla year round.
Tip: The patio is the seat; book two weeks ahead for Saturday lunch under the bougainvillea. Mariachi runs Sunday afternoon.
Los Danzantes in Mexico City is the Coyoacan plaza-side Oaxacan kitchen on Jardin del Centenario, the room that pairs house-distilled Los Danzantes mezcal with a black-mole tasting menu.
Signature: Mole negro, Quesillo tetela, Mezcal flight
Order: The mole negro with chicken; a flight of the house Espadin, Tobala and Madrecuixe mezcales.
Tip: Terrace seats face the plaza but get loud weekends; the upstairs interior is the quieter move. Open daily.
Merotoro in Mexico City is chef Jair Tellez's Condesa kitchen on Amsterdam, the Baja-California-rooted room that put Ensenada produce on the Mexico City fine-dining map since 2010.
Signature: Whole fish, Wagyu carpaccio, Tasting menu
Order: The whole grilled fish for two; the seasonal Valle de Guadalupe wine list.
Tip: Closed Sundays; the high counter seats face the open kitchen and book first.
Pujol in Mexico City is Enrique Olvera's two-Michelin-star Polanco room on Tennyson, the kitchen that put modern Mexican on the world map with its mole madre served past 2000 days.
Signature: Mole Madre Mole Nuevo, Taco omakase, Tasting menu
Order: The Mole Madre Mole Nuevo, served with fresh tortillas.
Tip: Book at least four weeks ahead via the website; lunch is shorter and slightly easier to land than dinner.
