Mexican Steakhouse$$$polanco
Loma Linda in Mexico City is the 1924 Mexican steakhouse that claims first-charcoal-grill credit in the capital, with the Plaza Carso branch on Lago Zurich.
Signature: Cabreria, Arrachera, Cortes de Angus
Order: The cabreria; the molcajete-grilled arrachera with handmade tortillas.
Tip: Plaza Carso location runs daily 13:00-23:30; the original Avenida Insurgentes Sur branch is the older sister.
French Bistro$$$juarez
Havre 77 in Mexico City is Eduardo Lalo Garcia's classic French bistro in Juarez, the Maximo Bistrot sister room that pours natural wine and serves a plateau.
Signature: Steak frites, Coq au vin, Plateau de fruits de mer
Order: The steak frites; the plateau de fruits de mer to share, weekend lunch only.
Tip: Closed Mondays.
Traditional Mexican$$$centro-historico
Azul Historico in Mexico City is chef Ricardo Munoz Zurita's traditional Mexican kitchen inside the courtyard of the Downtown Mexico hotel on Isabel la.
Signature: Mole negro, Cochinita pibil, Chiles en nogada
Order: The mole negro from Oaxaca; the cochinita pibil tacos.
Tip: Sit in the open courtyard under the Indian laurel; ask for the table closest to the fountain. Brunch lasts till 17:00 weekends.
Veracruz Mexican$$polanco
El Bajio in Mexico City is chef Carmen Titita Ramirez's Veracruz-rooted regional Mexican kitchen with locations across the city, with the Polanco branch.
Signature: Carnitas, Empanadas de platano, Mole de Xico
Order: The carnitas; the empanadas de platano with frijoles refritos.
Tip: Open daily 09:00-22:00; the Azcapotzalco original opened 1972 and is the deeper room for connoisseurs.
Traditional Mexican$$$azcapotzalco
Nicos in Mexico City is Gerardo Vazquez Lugo's family-run Azcapotzalco room on Cuitlahuac, the traditional Mexican kitchen ranked on the Latin America 50.
Signature: Mole Almendrado, Sopa seca de natas, Aguachile
Order: The mole almendrado; the sopa seca de natas, a layered creamy casserole.
Tip: Closed Sunday dinner and Monday; the slow-cooked moles are the move at lunch. Worth the cab from Polanco for the home-cooking depth.
Hidalgo Barbacoa$$roma-norte
El Hidalguense in Mexico City is the Roma Sur weekend-only barbacoa pit on Campeche, the Hidalgo-style maguey-pit lamb that fills the room from Friday.
Signature: Barbacoa de borrego, Consomé de borrego, Pancita
Order: The barbacoa de borrego with consomé; the pancita stew on the side.
Tip: Open Friday to Sunday only, 07:00-18:00. Arrive by 09:30 Sunday or the consomé runs out by noon.