Azul Historico in Mexico City is chef Ricardo Munoz Zurita's traditional Mexican kitchen inside the courtyard of the Downtown Mexico hotel on Isabel la Catolica, with Mexican regional moles as the spine.
Signature dishes: Mole negro, Cochinita pibil, Chiles en nogada
Must order: The mole negro from Oaxaca; the cochinita pibil tacos.
Tip: Sit in the open courtyard under the Indian laurel; ask for the table closest to the fountain. Brunch lasts till 17:00 weekends.
Address: Isabel la Catolica 30, Centro Historico, Cuauhtemoc, 06000 Ciudad de Mexico, Mexico City
El Bajio in Mexico City is chef Carmen Titita Ramirez's Veracruz-rooted regional Mexican kitchen with locations across the city, with the Polanco branch carrying the original Azcapotzalco menu.
Signature: Carnitas, Empanadas de platano, Mole de Xico
Order: The carnitas; the empanadas de platano with frijoles refritos.
Tip: Open daily 09:00 to 22:00; the Azcapotzalco original opened 1972 and is the deeper room for connoisseurs.
Nicos in Mexico City is Gerardo Vazquez Lugo's family-run Azcapotzalco room on Cuitlahuac, the traditional Mexican kitchen ranked on the Latin America 50 Best list and a national institution.
Signature: Mole Almendrado, Sopa seca de natas, Aguachile
Order: The mole almendrado; the sopa seca de natas, a layered creamy casserole.
Tip: Closed Sunday dinner and Monday; the slow-cooked moles are the move at lunch. Worth the cab from Polanco for the home-cooking depth.
El Hidalguense in Mexico City is the Roma Sur weekend-only barbacoa pit on Campeche, the Hidalgo-style maguey-pit lamb that fills the room from Friday through Sunday morning.
Signature: Barbacoa de borrego, Consomé de borrego, Pancita
Order: The barbacoa de borrego with consomé; the pancita stew on the side.
Tip: Open Friday to Sunday only, 07:00 to 18:00. Arrive by 09:30 Sunday or the consomé runs out by noon.
Expendio de Maiz in Mexico City is chef Jesus Salas' tiny no-reservations heirloom-corn counter on Yucatan in Roma Norte, the kitchen that built its name on native masa from Oaxaca and Tlaxcala.
Signature: Heirloom-corn tortillas, Tlacoyos, Quesadillas de masa azul
Order: Whatever the daily handwritten menu lists; the blue-corn tlacoyo with squash blossoms.
Tip: No reservations; only ten counter seats. Open Wed-Sun 13:00 to 19:00; arrive at opening and bring cash.
San Angel Inn in Mexico City is the 1692 hacienda turned restaurant on Diego Rivera, a courtyard-and-garden colonial room in San Angel where the Margarita Sabra is the city's most-poured Saturday brunch cocktail.
Signature: Chiles en nogada, Sopa de tortilla, Margaritas Sabra
Order: Chiles en nogada when in season July to September; the sopa de tortilla year round.
Tip: The patio is the seat; book two weeks ahead for Saturday lunch under the bougainvillea. Mariachi runs Sunday afternoon.
Los Danzantes in Mexico City is the Coyoacan plaza-side Oaxacan kitchen on Jardin del Centenario, the room that pairs house-distilled Los Danzantes mezcal with a black-mole tasting menu.
Signature: Mole negro, Quesillo tetela, Mezcal flight
Order: The mole negro with chicken; a flight of the house Espadin, Tobala and Madrecuixe mezcales.
Tip: Terrace seats face the plaza but get loud weekends; the upstairs interior is the quieter move. Open daily.
