Lalo in Mexico City is chef Eduardo Garcia's all-day Roma Norte counter on Zacatecas since 2014, the Maximo Bistrot casual sister with communal tables and breakfast that runs to noon.
Signature dishes: Huevos rancheros, Chilaquiles, Croque-madame
Must order: The huevos con chorizo; the chilaquiles verdes; a Mexican wine by the glass.
Tip: Walks-ins only; arrive before 09:00 weekends or expect a wait. Closed for full service Sunday afternoon.
Address: Zacatecas 173, Roma Norte, Cuauhtemoc, 06700 Ciudad de Mexico, Mexico City
El Cardenal Centro in Mexico City is the Briz family's 1969 Centro Historico breakfast room on Palma, the Sunday-morning institution where hot chocolate is frothed tableside with raw-milk nata.
Signature: Hot chocolate, Pan de nata, Chiles en nogada
Order: The hot chocolate with pan de nata; chiles en nogada in season.
Tip: Sunday brunch fills by 09:30; arrive at opening at 08:00 to avoid the wait. Three other branches across the city.
Azul Condesa in Mexico City is chef Ricardo Munoz Zurita's Condesa room on Nuevo Leon, the regional Mexican kitchen that tours a different Mexican state on a rotating menu every month.
Signature: Mole negro, Cochinita pibil, Tlacoyos
Order: The mole negro de Oaxaca; whichever state is featured that month.
Tip: Closed Sunday dinner; the rotating monthly menu is announced on Instagram. Daughter of Azul Historico in Centro.
Fonda Margarita in Mexico City is the Del Valle morning fonda on Adolfo Prieto since 1948, the open-air breakfast counter that has fed cabbies and politicians the same plates for over seven decades.
Signature: Huevos rancheros, Frijoles puercos, Chilaquiles
Order: Huevos con chorizo; frijoles refritos con asiento; chilaquiles verdes.
Tip: Open Tue-Sun 06:30 to 12:00, closed Mondays. Arrive before 09:00 or expect a 30 minute wait on the street.
Cafe de Tacuba in Mexico City is the Mollinedo family's 1912 Centro Historico room on Tacuba, the 17th-century palace dining hall that runs every traditional Mexican breakfast format the capital invented.
Signature: Enchiladas de mole, Tamales, Chocolate caliente
Order: Enchiladas de mole verde; tamales served with frothy chocolate caliente.
Tip: Daily 08:00 to 23:00; the strolling student trio on Sunday afternoons is the move for the room's full character.
Havre 77 in Mexico City is Eduardo Lalo Garcia's classic French bistro in Juarez, the Maximo Bistrot sister room with a natural-wine list and Loire pours.
Signature: Steak frites, Coq au vin, Plateau de fruits de mer
Order: The steak frites; the plateau de fruits de mer to share, weekend lunch only.
Tip: Closed Mondays. Walk-ins land easier than booking; the deep Loire natural-wine list is the move.
Molino El Pujol in Mexico City is Enrique Olvera's Condesa heirloom-corn cafe on Sinaloa, the daytime molino that grinds native maize for tlacoyos, tortillas and tamales open to the public.
Signature: Tlacoyos, Quesadillas de masa azul, Tortillas de comal
Order: A tlacoyo de haba; a quesadilla de masa azul de huitlacoche; a torta of the day.
Tip: Open daily 08:00 to 18:00. The blue-corn tortillas to take home are sold in stacks at the counter; the public is welcome to watch the milling.
