Heirloom-corn Mexican$$condesa
Molino El Pujol in Mexico City is Enrique Olvera's Condesa heirloom-corn cafe on Sinaloa, the daytime molino that grinds native maize for tlacoyos, tortillas and tamales open to the public.
Signature: Tlacoyos, Quesadillas de masa azul, Tortillas de comal
Order: A tlacoyo de haba; a quesadilla de masa azul de huitlacoche; a torta of the day.
Tip: Open daily 08:00 to 18:00. The blue-corn tortillas to take home are sold in stacks at the counter; the public is welcome to watch the milling.
Modern Oaxacan Mexican$$$coyoacan
Los Danzantes in Mexico City is the Coyoacan Jardin del Centenario Oaxacan kitchen, the plaza-side room that pairs house-distilled Los Danzantes mezcal with a black-mole tasting menu.
Signature: Mole negro, Quesillo tetela, Mezcal flight
Order: Mole negro with chicken; a flight of the house Espadin, Tobala and Madrecuixe mezcales.
Tip: Terrace seats face the plaza but get loud weekends; the upstairs interior is the quieter move.
Traditional Mexican$$$san-angel
San Angel Inn in Mexico City is the 1692 hacienda turned restaurant on Diego Rivera, a courtyard-and-garden colonial room where the Margarita Sabra anchors Saturday brunch under the bougainvillea.
Signature: Chiles en nogada, Sopa de tortilla, Margarita Sabra
Order: Chiles en nogada (July to September); sopa de tortilla year round; the Margarita Sabra.
Tip: Book two weeks ahead for Saturday lunch on the patio. Mariachi runs Sunday afternoon.
Regional Mexican$$polanco
El Bajio in Mexico City is chef Carmen Titita Ramirez's Veracruz-rooted regional Mexican kitchen with the Polanco branch on Alejandro Dumas, the dependable daytime stop for tamales and mole.
Signature: Carnitas, Empanadas de platano, Mole de Xico
Order: Carnitas; empanadas de platano relleno de frijol; tamal de mole.
Tip: Open daily 09:00 to 22:00. The Azcapotzalco original is the deeper room for Veracruz regional depth.
Mexican antojitos$$roma-norte
El Parnita in Mexico City is the Roma Norte antojitos kitchen on Yucatan since 2010, a casual modern Mexican room with hand-rolled tortillas and a tight chipotle-fish taco menu.
Signature: Tacos de pescado al chipotle, Pulpo a la brasa, Tamales
Order: Tacos de pescado al chipotle; pulpo a la brasa; the tamal of the day.
Tip: Closed Sundays. Lunch service runs the heaviest; the patio is dog friendly. Walks-ins land most days.
Hidalgo barbacoa$$roma-norte
El Hidalguense in Mexico City is the Roma Sur weekend barbacoa pit on Campeche, the maguey-pit lamb that fills the room from Friday through Sunday morning with Hidalgo-style platefuls.
Signature: Barbacoa de borrego, Consomé de borrego, Pancita
Order: Barbacoa de borrego with consomé and pancita on the side.
Tip: Open Friday to Sunday only, 07:00 to 18:00. Arrive by 09:30 Sunday or the consomé runs out before noon.
